Type: Sport
FA: Wright, Hanson, Lane, 1995
Page Views: 204 total · 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

As you migrate left around the South face of the Dungeon area, and prior to entering the maze of the dungeon proper, you come to a system of very steep roofs above a very cobbled bed rock. Wild America ascends the cobbled bed rock, traverses left and then jogs immediately back right to get establihed above a narrow roof. The meat comes in chasing a black streak via thin, sharp edges with some big reaches, on a dead vertical wall. Cool moves on sharp rock kick up a CWC "classic". We tried many times to link through the roof without the traverse left, but this never worked despite putting the combined 425 of muscle of the Ubermeisters, Tom and Mike, on the task. Cool line up an obvious feature.

Protection

Six or eight draws and a rope.

Photos

Brother Numsie
AnCapistan
  5.12d
Brother Numsie   AnCapistan
  5.12d
Hasn't anyone redpointed the direct start yet? Richard, I told you shortly before my climbing exile was imposed that this route requires a figure 4 from the base of the nose under the roof to get established. Right fingers into pocket, left foot in scoop, stand up and pinch the potato chip flake. That is the only direct ascent up without the contrived traverse. I came 4" short of the key pinch on my last, best attempt. But heading straight up is .12D minimum. Nov 23, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12c
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12c
Welcome back, Mike!!!! I have not tried this since way back when, and I don't know if Tom or you or anyone else got back to get it clean. In 1995, it was led all free, but with one or two hangs up high. While W.A. has a lot of cruxy moves, as you know, it's still pretty short and "only" 5.12. I'd be a bit surprised if someone didn't put it away a long time ago. Nov 24, 2002