Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Dungeon

Argenine Dary Party S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blondes' Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Diagadoigt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Varlot TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heather the Leather Nun TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helm Hammerhand S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Boltage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Maiden, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lichen the Old County S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Norman Rockshoes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poor Mr. Bat TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rack, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stocking Stuffer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whackbusher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Where The Wild Things Are S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wild America S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wild Kingdom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Hanson, 1995
Page Views: 139 total · 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Wild Kingdom indeed. Tom will fry in Hell for this, but when the time comes I'll try to bail him out with a glib lie - just because it is Tom. Wild Kingdom, runs up the cobbled bed rock immediately right of Wild America. The nifty sequence here comes in getting established in an untra-crunched stance in a right angling seam that is negotiated with no feet and a semi-decent undercling that has some widely spaced finger "locks". After a dozen feet of bicep buring, turn the corner on the right via good size jugs that are guarenteed to strip some flesh off your hands. The line stays sketchy until close to anchors as it remains continuously beyond vertical. Cool line, hard moves, and largely excellent stone kick up another killer line by the "Blonde Adonis".

Protection

Eight draws and a rope.

Photos

Not 12d. Dec 18, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12d
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12d
Tom Hanson listed Wild Kingdom as 12d in the guide, and when we worked on it it seemed quite difficult. However, I would find it easy to imagine that Anarchitect is considerably more difficult. These are very different climbs, so it is not easy to compare directly. Dec 18, 2001
kevin jenkins
  5.11d
kevin jenkins  
  5.11d
I hate to dispute rating. this is, without a doubt a mother of a route, and truly, you only get one shot at the hand-to-hand sequence before you gotta lower and chew on a Clif bar. But me thinks it merits a high 11, probably 11d. Though draining, the moves are fairly stable and good sized jugs help the security. Sorry Tom. Great route, though Sep 8, 2004
Kevin,

Wow, I thought this one was really tough. Did you use some other technique on the lower section besides doing an undercling, left to right traverse sequence? Perhaps I missed an easier way to do it. I am 6' 4" and had to have my feet right up under my hands to undercling right.

I am very impressed that you polished it off and felt that it was only stiff 11. Way to go! Jan 5, 2005
I'm actually 6' 2", not 6' 4" with a negative ape index Jan 6, 2005
I must set the record straight. I have never fully climbed this one though. I thought the moves required somone with a lower center of gravity than myself. Oct 4, 2005
kevin jenkins
  5.11d
kevin jenkins  
  5.11d
Tom - I'm sorry I have not checked this one out in a while to see your comments. I must first say that Tom Hanson is one of my absolute idols in Castlewood Climbing, and if it weren't for you, I'm not sure climbing in this neck of the woods would be what it is. Anyway, I'm 5'10", and did do the undercling sequence with a high leg, I remember that quite well. However, I did not match my feet, I had my left foot high, and my right foot flagged lower for stability. Ballsy, tough, and I'm not trying to sandbag, I just felt that despite the rough crux move, I felt the majority of the climb wasn't 5.12-ish, eh? I have been wrong once before in my life, and this may be a second, er...billionth error, but I stand by it. Kevin Feb 28, 2006
Excellent job Kevin,

Wild Kingdom must be one of those routes that just don't fit me.
I thought the lower traversing section was ridiculously difficult.
Thank for your feedback. I'll keep this in mind for future revisions of the guidebook. Mar 8, 2006
Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
 
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
 
My 2 cents. This route is really good with a one hard move crux followed by fair bit of pump along to the end. I see someone called this route 12d, perhaps a bit on the high side but not far off, and someone came along and called it 11d which seams a bit wild, he probably doesn't even believe that today (I've said similarly rash things on MP in my younger years). It's probably somewhere in between, call it soft 12c? Anyway, cool line and nice work on the FA. Apr 7, 2018

More About Wild Kingdom

Printer-Friendly