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Routes in The Dungeon

Argenine Dary Party S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blondes' Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Diagadoigt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Green Varlot TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heather the Leather Nun TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helm Hammerhand S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Boltage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Maiden, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lichen the Old County S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Norman Rockshoes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poor Mr. Bat TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rack, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stocking Stuffer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whackbusher T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Where The Wild Things Are S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wild America S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wild Kingdom S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Hanson, 1985.
Page Views: 1,267 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start on the left-facing flake and move straight up to some small horizontal breaks. It has good, powerful moves to start, then balance and crimping take over to the anchors. It is a nice route.

Protection

4 bolts to double bolt anchor.

Photos

Scott Rogers
Moab, UT
  5.10+
Scott Rogers   Moab, UT
  5.10+
Very Fun! Although the approach was a little disconcerting for a first-time dungeon climber, once I found this quiet area I was definitely impressed. The route is definitely a great warmup for the other routes in the area. Mar 31, 2006
The Rack seemed a bit easier than 5.11 but was very fun regardless. I bet the jerks who break the glass in there aren't climbers and will proabably never read this but f#ck you guys (or girls) anyways. My favorite move is the cross over from the intermediate crimper (left) over right and up to the big pocket jug that is practically invisible until you get there. I tried this one left but found clipping was too awkward and failed the onsight. Second time through... I got it and the cross over was the ticket. Have fun and watch your toes!! Apr 30, 2002
Another fun, well-protected route here. Despite appearances, the top section is pretty straightforward once you find the positive (yet blind) holds. The crux for me was getting from the first bolt to the juggy clipping hold near the second bolt.

The amount of broken glass and other trash in the Dungeon is ridiculous - belaying in this area reminded me of the "broken glass walker" that once appeared on the TV show "That's Incredible" (how many remember that?). Definitely don't go near this place barefoot, and I'd probably be uncomfortable even with just sandals. Cripes. Apr 22, 2002
Darrin Stein
Vancouver, WA
Darrin Stein   Vancouver, WA
Nice route with good rests. Love the blind, positive holds near the top. Dec 5, 2001