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Routes in MBA Buttress

Adrenalyzer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Bad Manners T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead Ted TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cliff Hanger S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Line aka Restless Heart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dan's Manners S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fatal Attraction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Feeding Frenzy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Man Dan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
How Rebolting aka Butt Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Behind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Bolt Achievement (MBA) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandela aka Leaning Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milk Dud, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Mini Me S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Minor Trad Achievement T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mournful Mullet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Manners aka Hodat T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Oblivious T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Over The Top aka Unknown bolt line S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Attack! or Shark Infested Waters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sick Minds Think Alike T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stoney Middleton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twenty Something Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0- 4- R
Wazup? aka Buchanan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: Ed Ash, Julie, and Charlie, ~1992
Page Views: 3,545 total · 17/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the sharp arete about 40 yards west of the top access between Table Top and Industrial Buttress.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. TR: Be careful, as the bolts are on a ledge about 15 feet below the top - belay recommended. Some long slings (10 foot) are nice to save wear and tear on the rope.

Photos

teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10a PG13
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10a PG13
This route is not bolted in the most friendly way: there is ground fall potential on easy terrain getting to clip 2, and ledge out potential *when cruxing* to get bolt 4. Indeed, I watched my friend fall above bolt three and break her ankle. It may be quality climbing, but it's an unfriendly route. Don't climb it unless you are very comfortable at the grade. Oct 20, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
This is a darling little route, and yes, very frog-like. I think the name may come from the movie "Joe versus the volcano," that goofball story with Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks in it which, like "The Princess Bride," just makes you smile, although you may not be entirely sure why. And it appears from the photos that the weird little death pillar has fallen off the ledge at 2/3rds height---good, I never liked standing on that thing anyway. And I remember the bird-dung spike, too. Always wondered about that.... Apr 28, 2014
Pre-bolts, this was a TR known as Shadow Arete. Apr 25, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.9
FIRST ASCENT 1992ish: Ed Ash, Julie, and Charlie.

1/9/2018: Top rope may count for more than an incomplete grade at Devils Lake, but not Colorado. Julie placed her share of the bolts on Brain Cloud. She was not happy that my Rock & Ice topos got this route wrong. Sorry I didn't get your last name that day, Julie. Apr 25, 2008
I think AC is referring to the obvious, inconsequential 6 inch wide white edge at the top of the pillar above the first bolt, before you arrive at the arete proper... looks like an accumulation of 100 years of bird shit. Try staying straight up the arete past the second and third bolt - the holds are a bit reachy, but the climbing is quality. Dec 5, 2004
Where is the fake hold? I climbed the route last week (after last climbing it five to seven years ago) and didn't notice anything like that. The route certainly doesn't need it. The moves are moderate and fun. Aug 3, 2004
How long has that fake hand-hold been there? Somebody put some glue on this route. Jul 25, 2003
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Fairly continuous route, though the bolts are at your feet at the 2 cruxes. The moves are frog like. Being a neurologist I cannot resist the name of this route. From the same anchors, one can toprope Shadow of a Hangdog aka Fat Fingers to the right (a sandbag at 10a/b) and Mandela aka Leaning Pillar to the left. There are 3 bolts trending right of the roof on "Shadow" leading to a 2 bolt anchor that is accesssible easily from the Brain Cloud anchors. This latter, somewhat contrived, route seems 11ish, and just left of the Stony Middleton corner. Therefore, we were able to TR 3 other routes, after leading Brain Cloud. Jan 8, 2003
The third bolt that protects the crux has a spinning hanger. This bolt should be inspected by the boys with the Bosch to determine if it needs to be replaced. Great route. Sep 10, 2001

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