Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: Ed Ash, Julie, and Charlie, ~1992
Page Views: 3,815 total · 17/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details


Climb the sharp arete about 40 yards west of the top access between Table Top and Industrial Buttress.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. TR: Be careful, as the bolts are on a ledge about 15 feet below the top - belay recommended. Some long slings (10 foot) are nice to save wear and tear on the rope.


The third bolt that protects the crux has a spinning hanger. This bolt should be inspected by the boys with the Bosch to determine if it needs to be replaced. Great route. Sep 10, 2001
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Fairly continuous route, though the bolts are at your feet at the 2 cruxes. The moves are frog like. Being a neurologist I cannot resist the name of this route. From the same anchors, one can toprope Shadow of a Hangdog aka Fat Fingers to the right (a sandbag at 10a/b) and Mandela aka Leaning Pillar to the left. There are 3 bolts trending right of the roof on "Shadow" leading to a 2 bolt anchor that is accesssible easily from the Brain Cloud anchors. This latter, somewhat contrived, route seems 11ish, and just left of the Stony Middleton corner. Therefore, we were able to TR 3 other routes, after leading Brain Cloud. Jan 8, 2003
How long has that fake hand-hold been there? Somebody put some glue on this route. Jul 25, 2003
Where is the fake hold? I climbed the route last week (after last climbing it five to seven years ago) and didn't notice anything like that. The route certainly doesn't need it. The moves are moderate and fun. Aug 3, 2004
I think AC is referring to the obvious, inconsequential 6 inch wide white edge at the top of the pillar above the first bolt, before you arrive at the arete proper... looks like an accumulation of 100 years of bird shit. Try staying straight up the arete past the second and third bolt - the holds are a bit reachy, but the climbing is quality. Dec 5, 2004
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
FIRST ASCENT 1992ish: Ed Ash, Julie, and Charlie.

1/9/2018: Top rope may count for more than an incomplete grade at Devils Lake, but not Colorado. Julie placed her share of the bolts on Brain Cloud. She was not happy that my Rock & Ice topos got this route wrong. Sorry I didn't get your last name that day, Julie. Apr 25, 2008
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Pre-bolts, this was a TR known as Shadow Arete. Apr 25, 2008
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
This is a darling little route, and yes, very frog-like. I think the name may come from the movie "Joe versus the volcano," that goofball story with Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks in it which, like "The Princess Bride," just makes you smile, although you may not be entirely sure why. And it appears from the photos that the weird little death pillar has fallen off the ledge at 2/3rds height---good, I never liked standing on that thing anyway. And I remember the bird-dung spike, too. Always wondered about that.... Apr 28, 2014
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10a PG13
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10a PG13
This route is not bolted in the most friendly way: there is ground fall potential on easy terrain getting to clip 2, and ledge out potential *when cruxing* to get bolt 4. Indeed, I watched my friend fall above bolt three and break her ankle. It may be quality climbing, but it's an unfriendly route. Don't climb it unless you are very comfortable at the grade. Oct 20, 2014
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
The bolts have been replaced. Thanks to the ASCA for supplying the hardware. Apr 9, 2018