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Routes in MBA Buttress

Adrenalyzer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Bad Manners T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead Ted TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cliff Hanger S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Line aka Restless Heart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dan's Manners S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fatal Attraction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Feeding Frenzy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Man Dan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
How Rebolting aka Butt Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Behind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Bolt Achievement (MBA) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandela aka Leaning Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milk Dud, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Mini Me S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Minor Trad Achievement T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mournful Mullet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Manners aka Hodat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Oblivious T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Over The Top aka Unknown bolt line S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Attack! or Shark Infested Waters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sick Minds Think Alike T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stoney Middleton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twenty Something Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0- 4- R
Wazup? aka Buchanan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,440 total, 12/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the crack system just right of Brain Cloud, a noticable arete sticking out, about 40 yardswest of the top access between Table Top and Industrial Buttress. The lower crack system ends at a small roof, with a clean looking 1" wide crack running up and slightly left.

Protection

Stoppers and #2 cams. TR access is via Brain Cloud, 5.9, or from the top (be careful, as the bolts are on a ledge about 15 feet below the top - belay recommended). Some long slings (10 foot) are nice to save wear and tear on the rope.
two chains
Fucken Zion
 
two chains   Fucken Zion
 
SoaH is 8+. Go to The Creek, and climb a 160 foot 10+, and try to tell me it's even close to this climb. Sack up, you Royal nerds. Apr 13, 2017
Kris Holub
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10a/b
Kris Holub   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10a/b
The first couple of times I got on this route I was sure it was a massive sandbag, but now that it has become a staple of my North Table outings, I agree with the 10- rating. The crux is much more manageable with good ratchet jamming technique and is really only a move or two of the difficult jams. The route is surprisingly footwork-oriented and has a number of good rests. This is an excellent first introduction to 10s for the hesitant leader looking to break into the grade; the falls are clean, the gear is ridiculously bomber, and you get good rests and stances to place from before pulling the hardest moves. Great route!

Detailed beta for anyone struggling with the crux: from the hand-jam stance below the roof, reach as high as you can and get a locker ratchet/ringlock with your right hand (don't crux yourself by placing a 0.75 too high). Work your feet up high right below the roof. Stand up and make a long reach for a good hold on the left side of the crack near the top. Short people might not be able to do it in one move, which means they will have to use a marginal, half-assed, thin hands jam with their left hand (look for a crimper inside the crack on the left) and possibly bump the right hand ratchet up. Once you have the good hold at the top of the crack, it's smooth sailing to the anchors. Jun 8, 2014
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
 
IMHO among the more interesting climbs at Table. Very safe lead as there is a bomber jam before the crux that allows pro placement at the hardest move/s. I did the strenuous layback version through the crux, have to try the ring locks next time, but it does seem a bit wide for my fingers. Would have to say that at 10a this climb felt a bit harder than other easy 10s at Table. Oct 15, 2007
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.10a
This is probably the coolest route at N. Table. ItÂ’s really not that hard if you know how to rock climb (bwah ha ha). You only need to make one ring lock move, or you could lay it back and it would be like 10+. Or you could aid up it using only knotted webbing (H to the C). Sep 26, 2007
Ian
Boulder, CO
Ian   Boulder, CO
The crack above the roof is not unlike Coyne Crack at Indian Creek, and that's rated 11+. Rating a climb that involves a few ring-locks over a roof 10a is a bit stiff. Feb 20, 2007
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a
Easy for a 5.10. I give it a 5.10a. You don't need to jam the crack. Set up a good layback and get your feet super high and you can muscle right through the overhang. Nov 9, 2006
Ryan Bibler   MT
Yep, I've hung on this one too. The guidebook calls this .10a, but getting your feet above the small roof while trying desperately to jam the crack is a 10b or 10c move for sure. May 1, 2006
Brandon Bogardus
Scottsdale, AZ
Brandon Bogardus   Scottsdale, AZ
It's a sandbag route. 5.11-. Apr 3, 2006
I had more fun doing this as an A0 (A1 if you deliberately use suspect nuts where you could use a cam) than toproping it. Even if this is 10b, I don't think I want to learn how to jam that thing with my fingers. Better to get strong enouth to do the layback moves. Feb 27, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
The 2-star rating I gave this climb is reflective of the location it is in. There are better climbs at Table, and far better climbs other places, but I am taking into account that The Naked Edge is not at Table....

5.10b or 5.10c. The move is kinda hard, and your hands can't get too far in. Fat fingers? I guess so. I half-hand-jammed it.

Rack is cams tiny-2" and a few nuts. You can clip the bolts on Brain Cloud for 1/2 of the route with 2' runners if you want to. Nov 17, 2003
richard berk
Denver, CO
richard berk   Denver, CO
AC, that is where the name "Shadow of a Hangdog" came from. Don't remember where our shadows were projected (my brother, a friend and I put up the route sometime around '88) but I do remember staring at my shadow as I hung trying to figure out that move. Sep 10, 2003
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
If you reach high in the crack, there is a hidden edge. If I remember correctly, it was half way up the off finger section on the left side. Using this crimp and jamming at the same time, may get you through the crux. Sep 9, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Ring-locks!! Sep 9, 2003
This climb is listed under both its names. My original comments are hereby appended (and edited) to the more frequented listing:

"Fat Fingers" - a less amusing name, but probably more indicative of the crux's difficulties. I tried everything I could think of to get a lock in that crack that splits the small roof on this climb to no avail. Seconds later I became the namesake "hangdog" although there was nothing incorporeal about it. Sep 9, 2003
Various guidebooks refer to this climb as "Fat Fingers." I can believe that. I tried everything I could think of to get a lock in that crack that splits the small roof on this climb to no avail. Seconds later I became the namesake "hangdog" although there was nothing incorporeal about it. Not sure of the origin of the name - maybe those hanging at the crux pondering the question of how to get a lock in the off-fingers crack bathe their belayer in a "shadow of a hangdog" if the sun is in the right spot? What an amusing name! Sep 9, 2003
The little overhang in the crack near the top is awesome. I wouldn't have had so much trouble if my forearms weren't so pumped, I looked like Pop-eye when I got to the ground. The bottom is way tough which makes the top even tougher. Fun ass climb though. Jul 14, 2003
richard berk
Denver, CO
richard berk   Denver, CO
My brother (Scott Berk), Jeffery Brown, and I did the first ascent of this sometime in the late '80s - don't remember who got up first. We named it Shadow of a Hangdog. I do remember connecting two wires for extended reach in protecting the crux. I really don't think it harder than 5.10b - just a tricky couple of moves requiring (as Anthony Everhart says) good off-finger technique. Feb 24, 2003
I don't think this route is a sandbag, but it is definitely solid for the grade. Careful footwork and good off-finger (#0.75 Camalot) jamming technique will get you through the crux. If you're trying to layback the crux, it would be much much harder. A good varied trad lead with a sweet crux. Feb 23, 2003
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
5.10d
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
5.10d
The Peter Hubbel guidebook calls this route "Fat Fingers". A sandbag at 10a/b. I have tried to climb this several times over several years, first on lead, then TR. More like 10d/11a. It requires a difficult layback with one's feet very close to the body. There is now a cam stuck in the crack several feet below the roof. See my comments on Brain Cloud re: other routes one can TR from the same anchors. Jan 8, 2003