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Routes in MBA Buttress

Adrenalyzer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Bad Manners T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead Ted TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cliff Hanger S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Line aka Restless Heart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dan's Manners S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fatal Attraction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Feeding Frenzy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Man Dan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
How Rebolting aka Butt Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Behind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Bolt Achievement (MBA) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandela aka Leaning Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milk Dud, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Mini Me S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Minor Trad Achievement T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mournful Mullet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Manners aka Hodat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Oblivious T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Over The Top aka Unknown bolt line S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Attack! or Shark Infested Waters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sick Minds Think Alike T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stoney Middleton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twenty Something Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0- 4- R
Wazup? aka Buchanan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 417 total, 6/month
Shared By: JP Griffith on Jan 15, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Here's a route if you want to scare yourself.

It starts out with some hand/fist jams, face holds, and some stemming. The pro is not bad, but it isn't great either. Once you get near the top, the rock is extremely delicate and seems about ready to peel of with the slightest tug. It is not fun to hold on or place gear here.

Location

This is on the east face of the buttress, just to the right of "Over The Top aka Unknown bolt line".

Protection

Medium gear up to a #4 Camalot. There are no anchors for this route, but it is possible to use the anchors for the sport route to the left with some precarious traversing.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9- PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9- PG13
I think this is "Hodat?" as described in the Haas and Schneider book. Feb 28, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9- PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9- PG13
The pro was good on this and you can place a #4 Camalot. There is a lot of loose rock at the top, but over time, it will get better. Feb 13, 2013
Furthermore
  5.8
Furthermore  
  5.8
This route doesn't warrant a bomb. Pro was decent and rock was good except for some pebbles at the top. The route will be a decent route with some traffic. May 26, 2012