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Routes in MBA Buttress

Adrenalyzer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Bad Manners T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead Ted TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cliff Hanger S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Line aka Restless Heart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dan's Manners S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fatal Attraction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Feeding Frenzy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Man Dan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
How Rebolting aka Butt Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Behind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Bolt Achievement (MBA) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandela aka Leaning Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milk Dud, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Mini Me S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Minor Trad Achievement T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mournful Mullet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Manners aka Hodat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Oblivious T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Over The Top aka Unknown bolt line S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Attack! or Shark Infested Waters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sick Minds Think Alike T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stoney Middleton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twenty Something Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0- 4- R
Wazup? aka Buchanan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Dan Hare, Claire Mearns, 2000
Page Views: 776 total, 4/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Climb just right of Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers), following the bolt line just left of the dihedral with the large crack. Follow a thin crack up and right to a small roof. Clip, then make a sweet dynamic move to a good hold. It's unclear whether the route uses the opposite face to stem off of; we did.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Micro cams or small stoppers would be a good idea for the lower half of the route.

Photos

two chains
Fucken Zion
 
two chains   Fucken Zion
 
Do not stem!!!! Right hand Gaston right of 3rd bolt mico left hand crimp, and throw left to jug. Again, DO NOT STEM! Apr 14, 2017
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
This would be 3 stars if the other wall wasn't there. It's annoying trying to avoid the stem. But there are really fun, well protected moves....

And you don't need anything bigger than a purple Camalot (and I don't mean #5). Jan 5, 2010
Laura Pyle
Evergreen, CO
 
Laura Pyle   Evergreen, CO
 
I thought it was a nice route. If you traverse slightly right, but not all the way to Stony Middleton, the line is pretty aesthetic. May 24, 2009
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
This description is a little misleading. The route starts out as a crack climb for the first 25 feet at least. Gear is required! When the climb gets steeper at the top, there are three closely spaced bolts. The bolted line is a bit contrived to me; following the strength of the rock rather than the obvious weakness. It seemed much easier to move right and join "Stony Middleton" rather than climb a few desperate face moves out of character with the rest of the route. Feb 10, 2008