Type: Trad
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 861 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Dec 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Luckily this fun crack was spared from the bolting frenzy. This is one of the many reasons to drag some gear up the hill....

Location

Look for the first bolted route left of MBA. Follow the first 3 bolts until you reach the super steep crack that goes up and right. At the top, it's easy to get to the Feeding Frenzy anchors.

Protection

"I think we're gonna need a bigger boat!?!?" and a standard rack. It has a shared anchor with Feeding Frenzy.

Per evan h: with permission of the FA, there are now two new stainless steel anchor bolts as of June, 2015.

Photos

Joshua Darnell
Westminster, Colorado
Joshua Darnell   Westminster, Colorado
Got on this route today with Kevin Gillest. Tricky face climbing on the first half of Feeding Frenzy will take you to the crack. A couple committing moves to gain the arĂȘte, and you finish on solid jams. Good climb if you're in the area with a rack and looking to lead some tricky TM gear routes. First time I have climbed this route in 15 years of going to TM. Props to KG for putting up the lead. Jan 18, 2015
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.10d
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.10d
4 bolts to solid gear:
-#3 orange Metolius cam
-med. Stopper/nut
-#2 gold BD Cam
-#1 red BD Cam
-used Feeding Frenzy anchors. Jan 18, 2015
evan h
Denver, CO
evan h   Denver, CO
With the permission of Tod Anderson, I added a 2-bolt stainless steel anchor to the top of this route yesterday. I found it a worthy route, especially if you're looking to push things a bit on gear at NTM. Unfortunately, using the anchors of nearby routes created pretty bad rope grinding scenarios when lowering and made it nearly impossible to clean on the rappel/lower. The new hardware should alleviate these problems. Jun 11, 2015