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Routes in MBA Buttress

Adrenalyzer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Bad Manners T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead Ted TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Arrow S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cliff Hanger S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dan's Line aka Restless Heart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dan's Manners S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fatal Attraction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Feeding Frenzy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good Man Dan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
How Rebolting aka Butt Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Behind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Bolt Achievement (MBA) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mandela aka Leaning Pillar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milk Dud, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Mini Me S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Minor Trad Achievement T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mournful Mullet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Manners aka Hodat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Oblivious T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Over The Top aka Unknown bolt line S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Attack! or Shark Infested Waters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sick Minds Think Alike T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spike S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stoney Middleton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Manners S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twenty Something Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0- 4- R
Wazup? aka Buchanan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Wright, Montagu, ABS, 2001
Page Views: 521 total, 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Dan's Manners is simply a variation of Dan Hare's new line that picks out the most continuous way up the Manners wall by following Dan's Line up to the ledge and swinging left to pick up the head wall section of Table Manners. This gives more continuity by using the 5.11b/c sequence of Dan's Line and the 5.11c/d section of Table Manners. The only break in continuity is the ledge above bolt four on Dan's Line. Using the principle of optimal beta for estimating the rating, Dan's Manners would go at 5.11c/d with a very reach-dependent move that could juggle the rating by a letter grade.

Protection

Bring about 8 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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