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Routes in Green Monster Slab

Erase Your Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Jello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster Aid Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pure Thoughts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,469 total, 72/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Nov 13, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A must do route for Rock Canyon. Easy approach, sustained difficulty, and good rock all make for an enjoyable climb.

Green Monster is the obvious larger crack up the right side of the slab.

The crack is filled with tasty holds if you prefer to venture in, or if you don't like you put your arm in the mouth of the monster, you can smear the slab and lie back the cracks lip.

Protection

Camalots 1 through 4, mostly size 2. We placed 9 pieces. Secure, two-bolt chains at the top.

Three #2, two #3, two #4, and a handful of smaller sized gear to supplement. You could also use large (hand size) hexes to easily protect the last 20 feet. Save the #3s and #4s for once the crack starts trending right.
Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.9
Love this route! Best trad line in the canyon. 5 stars! Oct 5, 2017
Eric Hardester
Provo, Utah
 
Eric Hardester   Provo, Utah
 
Top roped this by scrambling up around the back of Tinkertoys. There is an anchor next to the route anchors to clip a sling or daisy chain into while you setup the TR anchor. Super fun! Will do again. Apr 17, 2014
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
If you, like most climbers now, don't carry a full set of hexes, you'll probably want doubles 1-4 camalot. It can be done with a singe #4 if you walk it up the first long section of 4 size, place a good #3, and leapfrog the #4 to the upper section of 4 size. Cool easier cups/fists crack. 5.8. Oct 18, 2013
Josh Allred
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Josh Allred   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Tried this on lead for the first time today. Ran it out and took a 30 ft whipper. IMO one of the best routes in RC.

Not as hard as Bushwhack Crack or Satan's Corner in LCC. Did not feel like there were any 5.9 moves on it but was very sustained 5.8.

5.8+ anyone? Sep 1, 2013
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
Finally went back and led this. Not having a lot of big gear, we really had to run this bad boy out, so I won't bother to write our ridiculous gear list (I think we placed 5 pieces). May 22, 2012
Nich Cloward
American Fork
  5.9
Nich Cloward   American Fork
  5.9
I love this climb Oct 1, 2010
Nic Hoggan
Provo, Ut
Nic Hoggan   Provo, Ut
If you're going to top rope this route and want to gain the top via the gully in front of Tinker Toys, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT KNOCK DOWN ROCKS on the folks climbing there. The easiest way to do this is to stay to the left and hug the wall--there seems to be less loose stuff there. Feb 10, 2010
Nich Cloward
American Fork
  5.9
Nich Cloward   American Fork
  5.9
One day I'll do it on trad gear. Until then this is still my favorite climb, even though I only top rope it. Maybe, Tristan, this would be a good one for me to learn trad on because I'm so familiar with it. Sep 3, 2009
Christopher Miller  
  5.9
I did this climb yesterday as my first real trad line! i had a blast, the crack is no joke, it will eat your whole arm up! Aug 23, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I don't know how many hundreds of climbs I've done in Rock Canyon, but I actually hadn't led this one until this morning. I toproped it probably 5 or 6 years ago and remember thinking "Man, this is hard!" I laybacked up the whole thing. Well, 5 or 6 years (and lots of jamming experience) later, this thing is freaking SWEET! It gets my vote for the single best trad line in the canyon. I placed 7 pieces from #1 Camalot to #4 Camalot. Super classic. Aug 13, 2009
Nich Cloward
American Fork
  5.9
Nich Cloward   American Fork
  5.9
I've only ever top roped this climb, but I've climbed this route more than anything else. I love this climb. It's a great, long crack letting you lean on it, or jamb into the crack. It's much funner to lean though. Fun hike approach with a rappel to start, if you like to go that way (I do), and a rappel out. Classic, and a favorite. Jul 22, 2009
Mark Goodro
Puget Sound, Washington
  5.9
Mark Goodro   Puget Sound, Washington
  5.9
While the comparison of quality is pretty fair, this is a comfortable slab compared to the slight overhang of Goodro's Wall. I used Powercam #6-8 and BD C4 #1-2 in the first half, leap-frogged a couple #3 C4s for a while, slid a #4 for a bit, then finally ran out the last 20 feet on a couple marginal TCUs. I second the recommendation of two #3 and two #4 C4s. A third #3 wouldn't hurt. Jun 12, 2009
tenesmus  
 
This is the Goodro's of Rock Canyon only probably a better pure crack line. How many people have learned to climb on this chunk of rock? Oct 25, 2008
Skyler Penrod
  5.9
Skyler Penrod  
  5.9
Finally bagged this one. I used a 2.5F(Friend),2F,3F,3.5F,#6 Nut,4F,4F,4BD,3.5F. The top was a little run out but not bad. A must do trad line in the canyon. Oct 25, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.9
Awesome climb; Solid 5.9. Crack is extremely solid with fist jams most the way up and some good lie-back near the top. Used mostly Camelot #2 and #3 saving your bigger gear for the top. Used hexes on the lower stuff. Placement of chains allows for easy top-rope. A few runners around the middle will help reduce drag. A must do for those who like to hit up the cracks. Jun 22, 2008
Chuck
Columbus, GA
  5.9
Chuck   Columbus, GA
  5.9
I climbed it with a double set of hexes. I wish I had a few larger pieces. The route is great. Apr 24, 2006
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.9
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
  5.9
This is a great climb, a not to be missed in the canyon. The crack is consistent offer great jams. Rappel anchors have be added at the bottom of Dihedral, so you can rappel instead of downclimbing the 5.4 scramble approach. Jul 17, 2005
Lee Jensen  
 
If you want to top rope Green Monster then follow the gully up past Tinker Toys and scramble up the rocks to the top of the Green Monster slab. Nov 15, 2004