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Routes in Green Monster Slab

Erase Your Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Jello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster Aid Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pure Thoughts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,400 total · 74/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Nov 13, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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A must do route for Rock Canyon. Easy approach, sustained difficulty, and good rock all make for an enjoyable climb.

Green Monster is the obvious larger crack up the right side of the slab.

The crack is filled with tasty holds if you prefer to venture in, or if you don't like you put your arm in the mouth of the monster, you can smear the slab and lie back the cracks lip.


Camalots 1 through 4, mostly size 2. We placed 9 pieces. Secure, two-bolt chains at the top.

Three #2, two #3, two #4, and a handful of smaller sized gear to supplement. You could also use large (hand size) hexes to easily protect the last 20 feet. Save the #3s and #4s for once the crack starts trending right.
Lee Jensen  
If you want to top rope Green Monster then follow the gully up past Tinker Toys and scramble up the rocks to the top of the Green Monster slab. Nov 15, 2004
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
This is a great climb, a not to be missed in the canyon. The crack is consistent offer great jams. Rappel anchors have be added at the bottom of Dihedral, so you can rappel instead of downclimbing the 5.4 scramble approach. Jul 17, 2005
Columbus, GA
Chuck   Columbus, GA
I climbed it with a double set of hexes. I wish I had a few larger pieces. The route is great. Apr 24, 2006
Bad Sock Puppet  
Awesome climb; Solid 5.9. Crack is extremely solid with fist jams most the way up and some good lie-back near the top. Used mostly Camelot #2 and #3 saving your bigger gear for the top. Used hexes on the lower stuff. Placement of chains allows for easy top-rope. A few runners around the middle will help reduce drag. A must do for those who like to hit up the cracks. Jun 22, 2008
Skyler Penrod
Skyler Penrod  
Finally bagged this one. I used a 2.5F(Friend),2F,3F,3.5F,#6 Nut,4F,4F,4BD,3.5F. The top was a little run out but not bad. A must do trad line in the canyon. Oct 25, 2008
This is the Goodro's of Rock Canyon only probably a better pure crack line. How many people have learned to climb on this chunk of rock? Oct 25, 2008
Mark Goodro
Puget Sound, Washington
Mark Goodro   Puget Sound, Washington
While the comparison of quality is pretty fair, this is a comfortable slab compared to the slight overhang of Goodro's Wall. I used Powercam #6-8 and BD C4 #1-2 in the first half, leap-frogged a couple #3 C4s for a while, slid a #4 for a bit, then finally ran out the last 20 feet on a couple marginal TCUs. I second the recommendation of two #3 and two #4 C4s. A third #3 wouldn't hurt. Jun 12, 2009
Nich Cloward
American Fork
Nich Cloward   American Fork
I've only ever top roped this climb, but I've climbed this route more than anything else. I love this climb. It's a great, long crack letting you lean on it, or jamb into the crack. It's much funner to lean though. Fun hike approach with a rappel to start, if you like to go that way (I do), and a rappel out. Classic, and a favorite. Jul 22, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
I don't know how many hundreds of climbs I've done in Rock Canyon, but I actually hadn't led this one until this morning. I toproped it probably 5 or 6 years ago and remember thinking "Man, this is hard!" I laybacked up the whole thing. Well, 5 or 6 years (and lots of jamming experience) later, this thing is freaking SWEET! It gets my vote for the single best trad line in the canyon. I placed 7 pieces from #1 Camalot to #4 Camalot. Super classic. Aug 13, 2009
Christopher Miller  
I did this climb yesterday as my first real trad line! i had a blast, the crack is no joke, it will eat your whole arm up! Aug 23, 2009
Nich Cloward
American Fork
Nich Cloward   American Fork
One day I'll do it on trad gear. Until then this is still my favorite climb, even though I only top rope it. Maybe, Tristan, this would be a good one for me to learn trad on because I'm so familiar with it. Sep 3, 2009
Nic Hoggan
Provo, Ut
Nic Hoggan   Provo, Ut
If you're going to top rope this route and want to gain the top via the gully in front of Tinker Toys, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT KNOCK DOWN ROCKS on the folks climbing there. The easiest way to do this is to stay to the left and hug the wall--there seems to be less loose stuff there. Feb 10, 2010
Nich Cloward
American Fork
Nich Cloward   American Fork
I love this climb Oct 1, 2010
BJB   Texas
Finally went back and led this. Not having a lot of big gear, we really had to run this bad boy out, so I won't bother to write our ridiculous gear list (I think we placed 5 pieces). May 22, 2012
Josh Allred
Salt Lake City, UT
Josh Allred   Salt Lake City, UT
Tried this on lead for the first time today. Ran it out and took a 30 ft whipper. IMO one of the best routes in RC.

Not as hard as Bushwhack Crack or Satan's Corner in LCC. Did not feel like there were any 5.9 moves on it but was very sustained 5.8.

5.8+ anyone? Sep 1, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
If you, like most climbers now, don't carry a full set of hexes, you'll probably want doubles 1-4 camalot. It can be done with a singe #4 if you walk it up the first long section of 4 size, place a good #3, and leapfrog the #4 to the upper section of 4 size. Cool easier cups/fists crack. 5.8. Oct 18, 2013
Eric Hardester
Provo, Utah
Eric Hardester   Provo, Utah
Top roped this by scrambling up around the back of Tinkertoys. There is an anchor next to the route anchors to clip a sling or daisy chain into while you setup the TR anchor. Super fun! Will do again. Apr 17, 2014
Alex Temus
Alex Temus   Utah
Love this route! Best trad line in the canyon. 5 stars! Oct 5, 2017
Josh Call
Salt Lake City, UT
Josh Call   Salt Lake City, UT
What length of rope do I need to top rope this climb? Aug 14, 2018 · Temporary Report
Lee Jensen  
You need a 60m to climb this route. Aug 14, 2018
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
Ahh the Green Monster. This is as classic as it gets in the often over looked but still very stellar Rock Canyon. Easily one of my favorite routes of all time. There isn't an uninteresting move anywhere on this 100 ft. splitter up perfect quartzite. I've made many memories on this behemoth, and it was there for me when no one else was. It's the location of my first night climb, where I learned to hand jam and crack climb, and the route I most often ran top-rope solo laps on the summer before my junior year of college so I could blow off steam when both my girlfriend dumped me and I was working for the worst boss of all time. And, lo and behold!, once I started trad climbing I found that this beast is oh so much better on lead as it absolutely eats up cams just like it eats up jams. A #3.5 protects the heck out of the crux, but if you don't have one then a slightly tipped out #3 will do the trick. Don't pass up the opportunity to send this beauty. Aug 24, 2018

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