[Hide Comment] If you want to top rope Green Monster then follow the gully up past Tinker Toys and scramble up the rocks to the top of the Green Monster slab. Nov 15, 2004

[Hide Comment] This is a great climb, a not to be missed in the canyon. The crack is consistent offer great jams. Rappel anchors have be added at the bottom of Dihedral, so you can rappel instead of downclimbing the 5.4 scramble approach. Jul 17, 2005

[Hide Comment] I climbed it with a double set of hexes. I wish I had a few larger pieces. The route is great. Apr 24, 2006

[Hide Comment] Awesome climb; Solid 5.9. Crack is extremely solid with fist jams most the way up and some good lie-back near the top. Used mostly Camelot #2 and #3 saving your bigger gear for the top. Used hexes on the lower stuff. Placement of chains allows for easy top-rope. A few runners around the middle will help reduce drag. A must do for those who like to hit up the cracks. Jun 22, 2008

[Hide Comment] Finally bagged this one. I used a 2.5F(Friend),2F,3F,3.5F,#6 Nut,4F,4F,4BD,3.5F. The top was a little run out but not bad. A must do trad line in the canyon. Oct 25, 2008

[Hide Comment] This is the Goodro's of Rock Canyon only probably a better pure crack line. How many people have learned to climb on this chunk of rock? Oct 25, 2008

[Hide Comment] While the comparison of quality is pretty fair, this is a comfortable slab compared to the slight overhang of Goodro's Wall. I used Powercam #6-8 and BD C4 #1-2 in the first half, leap-frogged a couple #3 C4s for a while, slid a #4 for a bit, then finally ran out the last 20 feet on a couple marginal TCUs. I second the recommendation of two #3 and two #4 C4s. A third #3 wouldn't hurt. Jun 12, 2009

[Hide Comment] I've only ever top roped this climb, but I've climbed this route more than anything else. I love this climb. It's a great, long crack letting you lean on it, or jamb into the crack. It's much funner to lean though. Fun hike approach with a rappel to start, if you like to go that way (I do), and a rappel out. Classic, and a favorite. Jul 22, 2009

[Hide Comment] I don't know how many hundreds of climbs I've done in Rock Canyon, but I actually hadn't led this one until this morning. I toproped it probably 5 or 6 years ago and remember thinking "Man, this is hard!" I laybacked up the whole thing. Well, 5 or 6 years (and lots of jamming experience) later, this thing is freaking SWEET! It gets my vote for the single best trad line in the canyon. I placed 7 pieces from #1 Camalot to #4 Camalot. Super classic. Aug 13, 2009

[Hide Comment] I did this climb yesterday as my first real trad line! i had a blast, the crack is no joke, it will eat your whole arm up! Aug 23, 2009

[Hide Comment] One day I'll do it on trad gear. Until then this is still my favorite climb, even though I only top rope it. Maybe, Tristan, this would be a good one for me to learn trad on because I'm so familiar with it. Sep 3, 2009

[Hide Comment] If you're going to top rope this route and want to gain the top via the gully in front of Tinker Toys, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT KNOCK DOWN ROCKS on the folks climbing there. The easiest way to do this is to stay to the left and hug the wall--there seems to be less loose stuff there. Feb 10, 2010

[Hide Comment] I love this climb Oct 1, 2010

[Hide Comment] Finally went back and led this. Not having a lot of big gear, we really had to run this bad boy out, so I won't bother to write our ridiculous gear list (I think we placed 5 pieces). May 22, 2012

[Hide Comment] Tried this on lead for the first time today. Ran it out and took a 30 ft whipper. IMO one of the best routes in RC.

Not as hard as Bushwhack Crack or Satan's Corner in LCC. Did not feel like there were any 5.9 moves on it but was very sustained 5.8.

5.8+ anyone? Sep 1, 2013

[Hide Comment] If you, like most climbers now, don't carry a full set of hexes, you'll probably want doubles 1-4 camalot. It can be done with a singe #4 if you walk it up the first long section of 4 size, place a good #3, and leapfrog the #4 to the upper section of 4 size. Cool easier cups/fists crack. 5.8. Oct 18, 2013

[Hide Comment] Top roped this by scrambling up around the back of Tinkertoys. There is an anchor next to the route anchors to clip a sling or daisy chain into while you setup the TR anchor. Super fun! Will do again. Apr 17, 2014

[Hide Comment] Love this route! Best trad line in the canyon. 5 stars! Oct 5, 2017

[Hide Comment] You need a 60m to climb this route. Aug 14, 2018

[Hide Comment] Ahh the Green Monster. This is as classic as it gets in the often over looked but still very stellar Rock Canyon. Easily one of my favorite routes of all time, though I admit that's partly due to nostalgia. There isn't an uninteresting move anywhere on this 100 ft. splitter up perfect quartzite. I've made many memories on this behemoth, and it was there for me when no one else was. It's the location of my first night climb, where I learned to hand jam and crack climb, and the route I most often ran top-rope solo laps on the summer before my junior year of college so I could blow off steam when both my girlfriend dumped me and I was working for the worst boss of all time. And, lo and behold!, once I started trad climbing I found that this beast is oh so much better on lead as it absolutely eats up cams just like it eats up jams. A #3.5 protects the heck out of the crux, but if you don't have one then a slightly tipped out #3 will do the trick. Don't pass up the opportunity to send this beauty. Aug 24, 2018

[Hide Comment] Sweet jams. Wide up top, just jam deeper! 4 stars. Sep 4, 2019

[Hide Comment] There was a recent accident at this route when a climber tried to lower his partner off of the left side to avoid the 5.4 downclimb. The rope slipped through the belayer's ATC and the climber took a tumbling fall of about 10 feet. This is a long climb, especially if you include the scramble to the left. Close the system by both climbers tying into the rope or by tying a stopper knot. Aug 19, 2020

[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb. We used almost entirely number 3 C4s for the upper section. I had a number 4 and did place it but could definitely have gotten by with just 3s. Oct 9, 2020

[Hide Comment] I have no crack climbing ability whatsoever but I can climb into the gym up into the mid twelves. This route was a battle for me. The crux for me was where the crack opens up to be bigger than a hand jam but it wasn't quite big enough for me to do a fist jam. I ended up laybacking a lot of it on both sides of the crack. Good jams abound but my hand just wasn't the right size. Nov 5, 2020

[Hide Comment] super fun route, I was worried about my 60m rope not being long enough but it was more than enough. even for those with non crack climbing experience but with the caveat of a kind of tricky approach (if you want to do it safely.) I scrambled up past tinker toys to set the top rope while my belay partner climbed up to the little ledge for belaying. There is no super safe or obvious approach to the belay ledge from below. In retrospect we both should have scrambled to the top and rappelled down. There are three sets of anchors at the top for different climbs, I hooked my PAS into the first one and swung around to build our anchor on the second one. The lowering rings have some noticeable wear but are still strong. A medium 60cm sling gives you a great angle with little to no dragging on the rocks near the top. Once we got setup we had our belayer anchor in to the rings at the bottom of the climb because you can definitely (and we did) get pulled off the ledge a little when your climber falls. When we finished we cleaned the anchor and then I rappelled of (because again the lowering rings have noticeable wear so I didn't want to add to that) We then used the anchors at the bottom of the ledge to rappel/downclimb to the main trail. Sep 20, 2025