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Routes in Green Monster Slab

Erase Your Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Jello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster Aid Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pure Thoughts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,055 total, 13/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Oct 13, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Enjoyable finger crack that extends over a large bulge.

From the same start as Green Monster on the Green Monster Slab (see that route for approach information) you head directly up the right-facing dihedral.

Lieback the lower crack or stem way over to Green Monster crack.

Protection

Small cams (Camalot .3 - 2). You will probably need about 7 pieces. The bolts for Pure Thoughts are about four feet to the right. Single bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
 
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
 
Terrible route, at least in it's current condition. There are more like 5 or 6 rocks 50-150 lbs each, loose that could be knocked off the route if you're not careful. This is honestly one of the most uncomfortable, least enjoyable routes I've even been on. Long run-outs and crappy bolts don't typically bother me, but large, loose rocks with my belayer underneath make me cringe. Sep 14, 2017
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+ PG13
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+ PG13
5.9+ because this felt more difficult than Green Monster. Also, as the guy above me notes, there are two loose flakes. I think I could've pulled the second one off, and it was part of my sequence through the crux. Until it's been removed I would be very careful, it would likely slice your rope. The crack needs to be cleaned out--some good placements are nullified by mud caked into the crack.

This climb is rad! Sweet stemming/underclings/liebacks with committing moves above gear and a slighly overhung crux. Was surprised at how good it was. Get on it! Aug 26, 2014
I thought this was harder than it looked. It felt harder than Green Monster to me, that's for sure.

There are two big loose flakes on the route. One, on the right side of the dihedral, moves a couple inches when pulled on. It's a giant jug and it looks solid, so be careful.....it would almost certainly kill your belayer if it came off. The second is smaller and on the left, just after the first loose one. It's a nice hold, but it is hollow, so be gentle. Jul 10, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Chossy with lots of loose holds, this route redeems itself with fun moves at the crux above a bomber .5. Bring smallish nuts for the bottom part.
The single bolt is there for the rap, scramble around to the top and you'll find it about 6' to the right of the anchors for green monster. May 26, 2009