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Routes in Green Monster Slab

Erase Your Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Jello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster Aid Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pure Thoughts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Pedersen, mid-80's
Page Views: 1,770 total, 14/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Nice, continuous face climbing with a really fun crux section. Feels more sustained than the Aid Crack. Two, maybe three stars in there.

Location

Left side of the Green Monster face. Starts at the very bottom of the formation in a nice flake/crack. Then follow the thin seam on the face.

Protection

Thin gear, two pins and a bolt. Nuts, doubles in TCU's up to #3 camalot is possible. You don't really need the wide gear but there are one or two places for it if you don't have very many small pieces. Brass is not mandatory but placements can be found if you're into it.

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Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great line, very thin in places, but the gear is there when you need it.

The first pin wiggles a little bit, and I would not recommend falling on it. The second pin is solid, even though it sticks out a couple inches. I fell several times on it =). Oct 21, 2014
If you lead this...you will have one of the best experiences possible on a short trad line. The fixed gear is a blessing just when you are thinking "Hey, it would be nice if...oh...hey...there's a pin." It is possible to squeeze in some extra gear here and there but sometimes it can be a tough decision (fingers or nut?). Anyway...get on this and learn how rad it feels to commit! May 21, 2008
tenesmus  
 
Thanks Darren! I didn't know he climbed anything less than .12. This is a fun line. I remember living in provo in the 90's and climbing here watching Dallen Ward hike this thing and thinking, "one day I'm going to get that climb..." May 20, 2008
Darren Knezek
  5.10d
Darren Knezek  
  5.10d
Your wish is granted Clay. FA was Jeff Pedersen in the mid 1980's.
If you want to ask him about replacing the pins, Durrant, you can get reach him at his new gym, Momentum in SLC. May 20, 2008
D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
Great route. What do people think about pulling the 2nd pin and replacing it with a bolt and hanger? This pin is old, sharp and sticks out 2 inches. I am of the opinion that a new bolt would not detract from the experience of the lead but rather give new life to an old classic. Oct 11, 2007