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Routes in Green Monster Slab

Erase Your Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Jello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster Aid Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pure Thoughts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 4,226 total, 29/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Oct 22, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

Green Jello ascends the arete of the Green Monster Slab for its entire length. The first pitch runs about 5.7 and takes you up the majority of the route to a set of double chain anchors. Stay out on the face to the right if you want to keep things challenging, or climb the ledges on the left to simplify things for a bit. Either way you will be forced out onto the face on the second pitch for the crux, delicate balance, 5.9 moves.

This route may be done as a single pitch.

Descent: Either do a single (60m) rope rap to the base of the Green Monster route or walk off to the south.

Protection

Well protected bolt route.

P1 8 bolts and ring anchors.
P2 3 bolts and chain anchors. There is also a fixed pin that isn't really worth clipping since it is close to a bolt.

Location

Hike the Rock Canyon main trail to the gully just before The Kitchen. Scramble up the gully to the south past the Bolt Slab to the base of the Green Monster Slab. Do not ascend the Class 4 to the base of the Green Monster crack. Look for the bolt line on the arete of the Green Monster Slab.

Photos

Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.9
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
  5.9
First pitch is awkward, but the second pitch is where the money is. This is also a fun way to access the large ledge that a lot of people use to start the Green Monster crack on. Link both pitches, belay your second up, then move right from the Green Jello/Green Monster Aid Crack chains the Green Monster chains, rap down, and you're right at the base of Green Monster. Oct 26, 2017
Owen Witesman
Springville, UT
  5.9
Owen Witesman   Springville, UT
  5.9
Staying as much as possible on the face and edge of the arete makes this climb so much more worthwhile, and the short second pitch is full value. Apr 22, 2016
ClimbingUte  
 
Linked 2 pitches and down to ground took us to the ends of 80m rope (40m). Oct 15, 2015
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This route can be led as 1 pitch with a 60m rope. Full 2 pitches are only around 35m total. 15 draws will get you up. This is a fantastic route, even better if you don't stop 'till the top. Mar 12, 2015
Nich Cloward
American Fork
  5.8
Nich Cloward   American Fork
  5.8
I know some people don't climb the same climb more than once, but I do, and I will keep doing this one everytime I go for Green Monster. It's a great warm-up and we did it in one pitch this morning. Fun. Especially the second pitch. You get a little taste of feeling exposed and the moves are a little tougher than the first pitch so it's a good challenge. Sep 3, 2009
Nich Cloward
American Fork
  5.8
Nich Cloward   American Fork
  5.8
This was a very fun climb. I expected it to be longer for some reason, but it went by quite quickly. Good solid holds. Very fun second pitch to stay out on the face. It was my wife's first multi-pitch and she loved it. I would recommend this for anyone looking to get into multi-pitch stuff. Easy warm-up first pitch, with a slightly more challenging second pitch. It didn't feel like a 5.9 though. This will be my new approach for climbing Green monster, instead of the hike past Tinker Toys and up to rap in. Aug 14, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Bring long runners and do this route in one long pitch. Fun exposure and good moves up top. I don't think the bolts are too close to any of the thin cracks...
Watch your 70m when you lower/rap from this, most likely you'll have to land somewhere on the ramp. May 26, 2009
The ONLY downside in my opinion is the temptation to climb through the hardest moves on the other side of the arete. But if you climb true, this is a great fun climb. Thanks Jim. Mar 13, 2009
D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
Not a squeeze but rather a beautiful natural line up a prominent feature of the wall. surprised it wasn't bolted sooner. Its not very often that I climb a route of that grade but this is an exception. Oct 11, 2007
Darren Knezek
  5.9
Darren Knezek  
  5.9
Jim Knight established Green Jello about 8 years ago. He also did the first free ascent of Green Monster Aid Crack in the 1970's. If you're the Rock Canyon historian you say that you are, you would realize that there is only one new route on this "classic" formation since 1985. I've climbed over 350 routes in Rock Canyon and I think it's a great new addition to this formation, put up by one of the original Utah bad asses. What I find interesting is how much complaining there is on this website about new routes and as far as the Provo Crew waking up, the next time you're in American Fork, Maple Canyon, Triassic, Joe's Valley, Santaquin Canyon, Rock Canyon or The San Rafael Swell maybe you should wake up while you're enjoying the nice trails, routes and boulders established by "The Provo Crew." And as far as squeeze jobs are concerned, take a look at Green Adjective, The Schoolroom Buttress, Crescent Crack Buttress and just about every other crag in Little Cottonwood is just as squeezed as AF or Rock Canyon. All the routes that I've climbed at these cliffs have added to my life. I've seen Jim at every single Rock Canyon Repair Day in over 20 years rallying climbers, making posters, paying for repairs out of his own pocket; and I've never heard him bad mouth a single climb at any canyon. You're only in your 30's and he's helped create your stomping grounds in Rock Canyon and LCC since the early 70's. I also would give Green Jello four stars on this website, I think it's an extremely fun route. Aug 9, 2007
The bummer is that the upper face has bolts right by the Green Monster Aid Crack. How easy would it have been to leave this classic gear climb undisturbed by bolts? That crack up there just EATS up gear (like a great piece every 3-4 feet) and is maybe 5.9 by then. Jul 26, 2007