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Routes in Green Monster Slab

Erase Your Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Jello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Monster Aid Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pure Thoughts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: FFA Jim Knight
Page Views: 3,802 total, 26/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Oct 15, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

This thin crack to the left of the main Green Monster crack provides a pumpy feast of balance, technique, face moves, and jamming. The climbing goes with tricky moves for five to ten feet followed by a good resting spot where you can set your protection.

Protection

Full set of nuts and some small cams. Double chain anchors at top.

Location

Approach via the main Rock Canyon trail and then follow the trail on the right just before you reach The Kitchen. Go past the Bolt Slab (on your left) and scramble up the Class 4 approach to the base of the Green Monster Slab.

There are two bolt anchors here that help to protect the belayer until you get your first few pieces in. However, the Aid Crack route starts about 10 feet down from these anchors and so you will need to belay high up, extend the anchors, or forgo their use.

If setting up as a top rope continue up the scree gully past Tinker Toys and scramble across the ledges to the top of the Green Monster Slab. It might be safer to use the main crack anchors instead of the Aid Crack ones, but you will pendulum out to the right if you pop off. If top roping please put draws on the chains in order to prevent destructive wear.

Photos

I aided this a few weeks ago and I think a flake near the top - about 15 feet below/left of chains - broke off leaving blank face. I had to make a 3 hook move traverse. Not sure if I just got off route... Apr 8, 2017
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
call me crazy, but this is one of my all time favorite trad finger cracks anywhere. Long and sustained! Perhaps no move is exactly 10d, but I think altogether this is a 10d route. Cheers. Mar 25, 2011
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10d
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10d
This route never ends, but fortunately there are plenty of rest right when you need them the most. Takes lots of small gear; never used anything larger then 0.5 camalot. As far as rock canyon and quartzite goes, this route aint half bad. Nov 4, 2010
for some reason this feels harder than 10d to me, but maybe that's because i'm trying to climb the crack straight in and not use any outside holds. damn my purist mindset. Sep 25, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
I aided up this thing with Lee this morning. It was fun! I took a single set of Camalots to #2, one set of nuts, a set of Metolius TCUs, a set of C3s, a couple WC Zeros (red and blue) and and orange Metolius Mastercam. Aug 6, 2009
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.10b
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.10b
Ten:

You don't even have to be tall. You just have to know how to use your feet for the long reaches. I couldn't feel my fingers, so I have no idea how the crimps really were, but on TR, you can trust anything!

Fun route, I'll wait for better temps before I lead this. Nov 23, 2007
tenesmus  
 
This is .10a if you're tall. he he... Its rare to find a finger crack of this grade this close to vertical in the wasatch. A true gem on perfect stone. Lots of medium to small cams. Jul 26, 2007
Lee Jensen  
 
I aided this last month. Mostly small to medium nuts with a couple .5 - 1 inch cams thrown in. Mostly C1 with one C2 move. Mar 20, 2006