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Routes in Twilight Buttress
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Cosmic Thing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Edge of Night T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Free Me C2 |
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Free Me (free) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Pitch Black T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rome In a Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sunset Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Without Wheels T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Aid, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | George Rosenthal and Ted Coletti, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,282 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Bobby Hanson on Jun 17, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This is a seam at the lowest point on Twilight Buttress. Look for the steep older brother of Green Adjective next to a large pine tree and pointed boulder. This seam is Free Me. Caution: the tree and boulder are covered in sap!
Aid up the seam on small gear, expecting an exciting finish. This route goes hammerles, but a couple of pins up top to rap off of might be nice. The descent we chose was to top out on the slabs and essentially walk off. This was okay, but not entirely pleasant. You can also top out on the slabs and walk up and left to the base of Sunset Arete.
I'm not sure if it has been freed yet, but it certainly seems possible (by better climbers than me). There is no convenient way to TR this route, and the options for a gear anchor are only so-so.
If this route was longer, or if the approach was quicker, this might be a two-star route. When it goes free it will certainly be two-stars!
Aid up the seam on small gear, expecting an exciting finish. This route goes hammerles, but a couple of pins up top to rap off of might be nice. The descent we chose was to top out on the slabs and essentially walk off. This was okay, but not entirely pleasant. You can also top out on the slabs and walk up and left to the base of Sunset Arete.
I'm not sure if it has been freed yet, but it certainly seems possible (by better climbers than me). There is no convenient way to TR this route, and the options for a gear anchor are only so-so.
If this route was longer, or if the approach was quicker, this might be a two-star route. When it goes free it will certainly be two-stars!
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