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Routes in Twilight Buttress

Cosmic Thing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Me C2
Free Me (free) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Rome In a Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunset Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Without Wheels T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Aid, 40 ft
FA: George Rosenthal and Ted Coletti, 1990
Page Views: 691 total, 5/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Jun 17, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is a seam at the lowest point on Twilight Buttress. Look for the steep older brother of Green Adjective next to a large pine tree and pointed boulder. This seam is Free Me. Caution: the tree and boulder are covered in sap!

Aid up the seam on small gear, expecting an exciting finish. This route goes hammerles, but a couple of pins up top to rap off of might be nice. The descent we chose was to top out on the slabs and essentially walk off. This was okay, but not entirely pleasant. You can also top out on the slabs and walk up and left to the base of Sunset Arete.

I'm not sure if it has been freed yet, but it certainly seems possible (by better climbers than me). There is no convenient way to TR this route, and the options for a gear anchor are only so-so.

If this route was longer, or if the approach was quicker, this might be a two-star route. When it goes free it will certainly be two-stars!

Protection

Small nuts, RPs, tiny cams. One fixed LA that is too long for the placement.

Photos

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It seems that the moniker free me get's all the attention!
There are five or six other pitches That could use feedback.
May 11, 2010