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Routes in Twilight Buttress

Cosmic Thing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Me C2
Free Me (free) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Rome In a Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunset Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Without Wheels T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Elevation: 5,958 ft
GPS: 40.536, -111.802 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,438 total · 36/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Jun 20, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

A northeast-facing granite buttress with both crack climbing and face climbing at low elevation and a sense of solitude. Most routes are in the .10s and .11s, with a couple of nice aid climbs as well. The most striking line has got to be Sunset Arete, with its varnished patina face climbing through solution pockets.

All routes except For Lorne can be descended with a single 60m rope.

In the summer, the buttress is in the sun in the morning, but shaded in the late afternoon.

Getting There

Driving from BCC and LCC: take Wasatch Blvd south to about 11000 S., where it turns west (at 1700 E). There is a LDS church and a park on the outside corner of this turn. Park at the park.

Follow a paved trail SE until it meets an old dirt road towards the Shoreline Trail. Follow this steep road past a baracade and up... and up... When you get to a concrete catchment, cross the stream and bushwhack to the obvious granite buttress. It looks like there was once a trail, but many trees have fallen and erased it. Approach time ~ 35 min.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Twilight Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunset Arete
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sunset Arete 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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Photos

Graden Swett
Salt Lake City, Utah
Graden Swett   Salt Lake City, Utah
Went out here to climb Sunset and found a very formidable gate, large no trespassing sign, and barbed wire blocking the road just uphill from the red gate. Seems like too many dog owners had been taking their poopy pooches up into the watershed and the water company got pissed.

From what I heard, Sunset is an awesome climb with exhilarating moves and a killer view, very reminiscent of City Of Rocks in rock quality.
I guess its got really nice protection through the first three bolts or so, and then there is this trippy section where the bolts get a little more spaced out before some much needed jugs and then the chains. Well, that's what I heard, anyway. Jul 26, 2017
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
This is what happens when utahclimbers.com shuts down... Jul 9, 2015
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Asshole? You ungrateful twat, I made you a map!

I'm sorry to hear that the top of both buttresses look similar and it threw you off. I'm impressed your persevered without realizing that the nature of the rock, the approach time and orientation of the crag were wrong. I imagine you had your phone with you to compare pics? Gotta wonder in which state you'd have ended up if you had been going by the guidebook...

Congrats though, you probably made a rare repeat of:



Although the description for that pile doesn't make it sound like you should have had a major Survivor moment in talus and scrub oak. Jul 8, 2015
Tofu Brain
Denver
Tofu Brain   Denver


Tanner is a troll, he sent Sunset Arete on the 2nd! Jul 8, 2015
Tanner Wilcox
Provo, UT
Tanner Wilcox   Provo, UT
Dude quit being an asshole I'm just trying to find a climb with pretty bad information. The instructions never say that the roads end and the top of the rock looked similar to the top of the rock in the picture. I don't understand your frustration I'm just asking for help Jul 8, 2015
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
How the hell do you match pics of a granite buttress to a chunk of red quartzite?
You didn't find a catchment, you found a pipe bridge... Didn't you wonder why it only took you 10 minutes to get there instead of 35?

Jul 8, 2015
grk10vq    
click: View Map on the top of this page

or you could try using a guide book? Jul 8, 2015
Tanner Wilcox
Provo, UT
Tanner Wilcox   Provo, UT
Alright guys no need to be dicks about it. I read the instructions on how to get there and I followed them. I also looked at pictures and matched it to that rock. In the getting there it says to go until you reach the catchment and that's what I did. If you want to actually be helpful could you please post a google maps style picture like I did that shows where it is? Jul 8, 2015
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Pretty amusing that you can see the jeep road on this picture. Maybe following that ROAD to a large buttress made of GRANITE on the SOUTH side of the canyon would have helped? The anchor points are fine... Jul 3, 2015
Bifocals are the way zozo Jul 3, 2015
zoso  
A "guide" what now??? Jul 3, 2015
Too funny, the "Proj" strikes again. Jul 3, 2015
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
Read Tanner's comment if you want to get really lost and not climb

Your picture is no where near the Twilight Buttress. Try using a guide book once and a while, its one of those things with paper and directions inside. Plenty of people with more sense have been here well under 10 years ago, and a few have even been there this spring. I will give you credit for persevering, you spent hours looking for a trail and neither you or your partner thought you might be in the wrong place? Jul 3, 2015
Todd H
Sandy, UT
Todd H   Sandy, UT
Tanner, you are confused. The rock identified on your photo is not the Twilight Buttress. Twilight is further up the canyon, on the south side (north facing slope). I believe what you think is Twilight is actually known as Big Willow Quartzite. Jul 3, 2015

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