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Free Me

C2, Aid, 40 ft,  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: George Rosenthal and Ted Coletti, 1990
Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Willow Canyon > Twilight Buttress

Description

This is a seam at the lowest point on Twilight Buttress. Look for the steep older brother of Green Adjective next to a large pine tree and pointed boulder. This seam is Free Me. Caution: the tree and boulder are covered in sap!

Aid up the seam on small gear, expecting an exciting finish. This route goes hammerles, but a couple of pins up top to rap off of might be nice. The descent we chose was to top out on the slabs and essentially walk off. This was okay, but not entirely pleasant. You can also top out on the slabs and walk up and left to the base of Sunset Arete.

I'm not sure if it has been freed yet, but it certainly seems possible (by better climbers than me). There is no convenient way to TR this route, and the options for a gear anchor are only so-so.

If this route was longer, or if the approach was quicker, this might be a two-star route. When it goes free it will certainly be two-stars!

Protection

Small nuts, RPs, tiny cams. One fixed LA that is too long for the placement.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] It seems that the moniker free me get's all the attention!
There are five or six other pitches That could use feedback.
May 11, 2010