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Routes in Twilight Buttress

Cosmic Thing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Me C2
Free Me (free) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Rome In a Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunset Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Without Wheels T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: FFA - Chris Thomas 11/2007. George Rosenthal and Ted Coletti 1990 (Aid)
Page Views: 1,229 total · 10/month
Shared By: christ on May 20, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

A short, brutally thin seam that starts low on the Twilight Buttress. More of an RP-protected boulder problem than anything else. Jam and lieback the obvious seam past two fixed pins, using some small features on the face as well. The crux comes about a third of the way up, just before making a long move to an edge out right. Difficult to rate -- .13b or c, but some others should try it to consolidate the grade. A great route!

Location [Suggest Change]

Start low on the twighlight buttress, off of a steep slope. There is a large boulder and pine tree just left of the start.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Two fixed pins, small TCUs, and brass nuts. Lowe Balls are nice but not necessary. A bolt protects the mantel onto the slab at the top. Plese don't nail this route! It goes clean, whether aid or free.

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christ
 
christ  
 
I realize that this route already exists in the database, but I thought that after the FFA it would be appropriate to add an entry for the free route as well. Anyone else have an opinion about this? I also considered just adding comments in the existing entry, but then if someone was searching for free routes it wouldn't show up. May 20, 2008
Nice Work!! May 20, 2008
Strong work! This route had the obvious name to lure someone like you who could go there and free it. I think it is great! I know George will be excited to hear the news! May 20, 2008
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Adding a second entry for the free version is perfect. Very nice work. May 21, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
And maybe you should name the free line "ChrisT Freed Me" :-) May 21, 2008

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