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Routes in Twilight Buttress

Cosmic Thing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Me C2
Free Me (free) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Rome In a Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunset Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Without Wheels T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ted Coletti, George Rosenthal, and Pat Maloney, 1989
Page Views: 2,309 total, 17/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Aug 17, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Great pitch. Short but packed with fun, pumpy moves. Be careful getting to the first bolt, you may want to stick clip it.

Location

Farthest route to the viewers left on the Twilight Buttress.

Protection

5 lead bolts, maybe a small cam or two for protecting the moves to the first bolt, 2 bolt anchor w/chains.

Photos

If ya'll climbers would "learn to fly", you wouldn't need to do all that hard work. ;-)

Great to see you again, Pat!!!! May 20, 2010
Ted Coletti and myself would hike up to this crag after work and get in a little climbing time.
On the Sunset Arete we even used a bossons chair i.e. plywood seat with padding.
most of the routes at this Crag where hand drilled, and the bolts at the crux's are 3 inch's long
After we put in the Sunset Arete I spent a few afternoons on The Edge of Night, Just ten to 15 feet right of Sunset Arete, a beautiful 5.11B
I would like to see more local climbers enjoying this area, The Rock is very much like the City of rocks! Get out and do these routes!
Another must do at this crag is "Without wheels" to "nightstalker" two great pitches, all are in the Ruckman Brothers guide. May 11, 2010
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
ya, it is a great route! A bit hard for a warm-up for me. You can protect the moves to the first bolt with a small tcu (blue or yellow?). From the top you can scamper up to the upper anchor and TR the two routes to the right. The middle route is 11ish and in the book, the crux at the bottom is crimpy and hard!. The right route is not in the book but is very fun (on TR anyway). Aug 17, 2006