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Routes in Twilight Buttress

Cosmic Thing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Me C2
Free Me (free) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Rome In a Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunset Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Without Wheels T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Pat Maloney, James Garrett, 1990
Page Views: 102 total, 1/month
Shared By: Pete Spri on Jul 10, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The route climbs a steep and slabby corner system on the lower half, then climbs an arete on the upper half.

The crux is on the beautiful lower dihedral section from the 1st through the second bolt. The seam has some side pulls off of a few finger tips pods. Delicate stemming required! The upper arete is substantially easier, with a couple of touchy 5.9ish moves above some gear placements.

You can A0 the lower section if needed.

Location

Get to this route by skirting the base of the buttress. It is the beautiful corner that provides a great "warm up" (ha ha) for the 5.10s on the right side of the buttress. Like most of the routes on this buttress, it is probably best to save this for afternoon shade, since it gets sun in the AM through about 2pm.

Protection

All bolts on this route are a button-head style that seem to look newer. The first half (corner) has 3 bolts on it. The second half (arete) has 3 bolts on it as well. Before reaching the first bolt, it may be prudent to place a black metolius or equal.

Once you climb past the third bolt, you will step over right onto the arete. This is followed by 3 bolts. Some cracks in the rock allow for some smaller nut or tcu placements before you get to the last bolt(DMM peenuts and 0-2 metolius are the sizes of the cracks). You can get 2 placements before you clip the last bolt, then climb to chains. Failing to have gear to protect here would result in a long ride, potentially over the edge of the arete, should you fall. You want some gear for this last part.

There are two sets of anchors, one manky with a bunch of tat on it on the arete (most likely the routes "proper" anchors), and one to the right with chains that sets you up to do the 3 other 5.10 routes on the steep face above. A single 60m rope will just barely make it to the ground from these anchors.

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