Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 30 ft (9 m)|
|FA:||Pat Maloney, James Garrett, 1990|
|Page Views:||409 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Pete Spri on Jul 10, 2011|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
The crux is on the beautiful lower dihedral section from the 1st through the second bolt. The seam has some side pulls off of a few finger tips pods. Delicate stemming required! The upper arete is substantially easier, with a couple of touchy 5.9ish moves above some gear placements.
You can A0 the lower section if needed.
Once you climb past the third bolt, you will step over right onto the arete. This is followed by 3 bolts. Some cracks in the rock allow for some smaller nut or tcu placements before you get to the last bolt(DMM peenuts and 0-2 metolius are the sizes of the cracks). You can get 2 placements before you clip the last bolt, then climb to chains. Failing to have gear to protect here would result in a long ride, potentially over the edge of the arete, should you fall. You want some gear for this last part.
There are two sets of anchors, one manky with a bunch of tat on it on the arete (most likely the routes "proper" anchors), and one to the right with chains that sets you up to do the 3 other 5.10 routes on the steep face above. A single 60m rope will just barely make it to the ground from these anchors.