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Routes in Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall

Easy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finer Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forgotten Trails S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Humble's Tumble T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Nogales T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Provo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psycho Driller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Riding on an Incline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sabbatical T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tennish Anyone? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Lowe
Page Views: 3,379 total, 22/month
Shared By: Jason Billings on Jun 9, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This route is on the East side of the Lower Breadloaves AKA Provo Wall. Although you can park at the West side of the Breadloaves parking lot and hike around, it is easier to park near the campsite, cross the road, and hike up the hill. This route is in a corner with a trough and has an obvious bulge you must climb around about 3/4 the way up.

This climb starts out with a thin hand crack. Climb up around a bulge and then move out onto a pocketed face of easy climbing. Rappel by scrambling down to the right and using Something Sporting anchors.

Protection

Standard Rack
Kai Larson
Sandy, Utah
  5.7
Kai Larson   Sandy, Utah
  5.7
The lower section of this route is not 5.5 More like easy 5.7

Plenty of protection.

This is not a trad lead for a 5.5. leader.


Fun route. Well worth climbing. Aug 18, 2015
Dr. Long Arm
  5.7
Dr. Long Arm  
  5.7
Super fun climb, but definitely NOT 5.5. I would call it a solid 5.7 for sure. Top half is easy. I thought it took pro just fine. There is now a fixed piece of pro as my follower couldn't remove a 1.5 friend from the middle section...it's yours if you can get it out! Oct 19, 2013
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
 
A really fun climb that requires a good mix of techniques. Protection was creative at times, but adequate - I would suggest having a healthy variety of pieces. While I usually agree with most City ratings, this one is certainly harder than any other 5.5 in the area. Aug 1, 2013
Ryan Hamilton   Orem
The trough section, first 25 ft. or so, is 5.7+ for sure. The finish is solid 5.5, great holds. If you have a variety of pro there are plenty of places to use it in the trough section. Found this fairly easy to protect. Jun 19, 2012
Thanks for the rating corrections. I'll make sure to change for the new guide. Oct 10, 2011
zoso
  5.7
zoso  
  5.7
There's plenty of gear the whole way on this. Good thing as the 1st 50ft or so was 5.7ish. Build an anchor up top then walk to chains left of Finer Niner. Sep 25, 2011
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
wow, a sandbag 5.5! All ye new leaders, this is not 5.5. I would call the trough a sneaky 5.6. Great climb though. To get off use the second set of anchors east of the climb. Much easier stance than "tennish" and a 60 meter makes makes the ground by about 8 ft. Some folks may still wish a belay down to this anchor. Jun 27, 2010
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
I'd have to agree with Bobby and 46 - Not 5.5 and not a good beginner lead. The bottom trough/corner was not all that easy (though it was very good climbing) and even if the pro was adequate, I didn't see a way to sew it up.
Good Times on Window Rock, rated 5.6, was MUCH easier. Jul 11, 2008
Mark Griffin
Boulder, CO
Mark Griffin   Boulder, CO
Very fun. I thought the pro was plentiful, maybe even abundant. You can sew this up if you want. You have your choice of jams, stems, face holds, etc, makes this a really fun varied route. The parking is actually at site #57 but there are also a couple of pullouts nearby. Sep 17, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.6
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.6
Fantastic route with a wide variety of movement. However, the beginning 30-40 feet ain't no 5.5. I'm not saying it's that hard, just not 5.5 and the gear is somewhat small and sparse so a highly recommended climb for trad climbers but not a good first trad lead IMHO. This route does not have it's own anchors, we can downclimb a crack (pretty easy but be alert) to the anchors of the route "Tennish Anyone?". We did a double rope rappel but I think a 60m rope might BARELY make it? Enjoy Jul 20, 2006
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
 
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
 
This is a fun route. However, if you are a beginning leader, I would recommend you do something else. There isn't a lot of pro up the trough. Jun 12, 2005