Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dan Sperlock
Page Views: 18,753 total · 150/month
Shared By: kyber on Sep 14, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


75 Opinions

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Description

scramble up putting in an optional piece in the flake (not really needed but its there if you want it) to the first bolt. fun move out to the right and up face. continue straight up to chains. you can climb a slightly contrived version by not using any of the jugs off left. either way its about an 8 or 9.

Location

this route is the left side and shares the start with seven grain. seven grain is a gear route that breaks left and niner goes up the areteish feature left of big roof.

Protection

bolts 10ish? also nice to have a long runner for that first bolt.

Photos

garrick steele
Golden, CO
 
garrick steele   Golden, CO
 
As of 6/25/14 there are 6 bolts and chains. This route is about 100ft. We used a 70m rope. Knot the ends if you are using a 60m. Jul 10, 2014
Classic City of Rocks contrived route. Bolts are placed just to the right of 5.7 jugs the majority of the way up. Mar 19, 2015
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
Looks like the first ascentionist was trying to force a line, bolts should get moved left, no one is going to stay away from sweet patina jugs. And you still get a funky crux at the top. Aug 13, 2017
The original, 29 year old bolts have replaced. Thanks to the ASCA for the hardware! Aug 25, 2018
Some folks have mentioned this route would be more fun with some re-engineering. As it is, you scramble up and left to a bolt about 30' up (gear pro optional), then make the climb's crux move pulling around a small roof. Above here, most climbers use holds left of the bolt line at about 5.8. An option would be to add a direct start by adding a bolt or two right of the current 1st bolt. Thoughts? Sep 22, 2018