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Routes in Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall

Easy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finer Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forgotten Trails S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Humble's Tumble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Nogales T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Provo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Driller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Riding on an Incline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sabbatical T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tennish Anyone? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Roofs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bill Boyle, 1989
Page Views: 1,698 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 1, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

A good route overall. The climb starts in an interesting low-angle slot behind a thin flake, then steps out right to a few bolts (crux) on this flake before climbing up the face on the right side of the left-facing corner with big moves between big plates. Up top you can place gear in horizontals, but the upper part of the climbing is moderate and secure and it may not feel necessary. 100' to a set of chain anchors.

Location

This climb starts at the Base of "Humble's Tumble" which has the distinction of being the single most obvious corner climb on the upper East side of the Breadloaves.

Protection

A set of draws and a few cams if you like.

Photos

BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10a
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10a
It seems a little contrived to head right at the first bolt. It's easy to stay in the OW to the ledge and then head right onto the face. Felt like 10a or so doing it this way. Upper face is so beautiful! Jun 21, 2010
Courtney Pace   Sandy
There is a full on sideways lunge to a huge plate jug. Funnest move of the route. Those horizontals up top are pretty handy for protection. Apr 24, 2012
First bolt very contrived (and difficult) - i.e. not the natural line at all. Good climbing on face above with one slightly wandering section.

(Sideways lunge not necessary.) Jun 27, 2013
John Steiger
  5.10a
John Steiger  
  5.10a
If you’re top roping this, a better alternative to get to the first bolt is to climb along a dike-like feature diagonalling in from the right (gain the dike by working up some darkish extrusions). This makes the line completely independent of Humble Tumble and probably bona fide 10c. One of you young 'uns with itchy fingers should bolt it, after getting the park’s permission, of course. Oct 16, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Stepping out of the OW and smearing/laybacking past the first bolt felt 10c to me (and contrived, but still fun) and then some small gear in a horizontal gets you to the second bolt. The path of least resistance on the upper face requires some thought. A slung horn and small gear up to a green camalot provide plenty of protection for the upper portion. A worthy route. We climbed the Humble's Tumble to the left first, so I just precliped the first bolt on the way down. But there is good pro to get there (I had placed it when climbing Humble's) - as I recall a #4 camalot and a yellow mastercam will work. Jun 27, 2018

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