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Routes in Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall

Easy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finer Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forgotten Trails S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Humble's Tumble T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Nogales T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Provo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psycho Driller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Riding on an Incline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sabbatical T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tennish Anyone? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,275 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 25, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Perhaps the best looking crack on the wall, from afar. Then you get closer and it gets wider and longer. If you like OffWidth, that's fine, otherwise it starts loosing stars. I happen to be down with it, so it is as good as it looks. Remarkably, the climbing is mostly solid and with the use of some face holds. Not only does it fall short of being a "5.9d" like the book suggests, it may be perhaps even soft at the grade of 5.9 overall.

Location

This is the best-looking left-facing corner on the wall and can easily be spotted from the road on the way in.

Protection

A standard rack to 4". Some fist sized cams go back into the crack a way and are quite good to have. Belay and rap as for Sabbatical-carefully watch the ends of your rope unless you have a 70M.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9-
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9-
Super fun route, and very continuous climbing. I think 5.9 is fair - there are no stopper moves, but no easy moves either.

Climb protects very well - outside of a few sections in the first 40 feet, you could put a cam anywhere you want. I brought a #4 camalotand only found a place for it at the very top and it wasn't even necessary. So gear to a #3 camalot is fine, but you'll probably want extra in the green camalot to #2 size. It was surprisingly mostly tight hands the whole way.


We built an anchor up top (finger size cams - yellow/orange mastercams, grey small camalots) for people to TR and then did some shenanigans to get to the anchor on top of the neighboring route. The anchor is quite low and it was a bit of pain. Sep 1, 2017
Not actually an off-width. More of a small hands to large hands splitter in a v-slot. Easily done with .75 camalots to #3. Mar 19, 2015
K Baumgartner
  5.8 PG13
K Baumgartner  
  5.8 PG13
Chimney, crack. Rinse, repeat. This is a PHENOMENAL climb. A solid 5.8 but not any harder for a seasoned crack and chimney climber. Built an anchor to the left at the top. Rapped from the shuts to the right. 70m got us down fine. Jun 28, 2013
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
 
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
 
Thoroughly enjoyed this climb. I thought it was 5.10, but I am an amateur in off-width cracks. I just plunged deep into the chasm and felt pretty solid working my way on up. I built an anchor at the top (to reduce rope drag which would have been horrendous if I went straight over the the chains), as well as clipping the rap anchors, to lower off and top-rope another climber up to clean. 70m rope was fine. Jun 25, 2012