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Routes in Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall

Easy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finer Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forgotten Trails S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Humble's Tumble T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Nogales T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Provo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psycho Driller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Riding on an Incline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sabbatical T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tennish Anyone? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Roofs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bill Boyle, 1989
Page Views: 364 total, 6/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Sep 17, 2012
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is the heavily textured face to the left of Provo. It begins up the shared crack, but breaks left towards a mini-roof and climbs awkward features up the face. Beautiful from the ground, don't be surprised if you're cursing this line a few moves in...

Start using small gear up the nice crack to gain a short, flat ledge. Work left towards the first bolt and get yourself set. The real climbing starts here and doesn't end until the high, third bolt. Precise movement and miniscule crimps help gain some ground, but don't let up, carry on to the redpoint crux, which is gaining the third clip. Finish the route up considerably easier terrain passing a few well-spaced bolts.

Really good, but really sparse, this line has misleading holds and questionable movement that will keep you on your toes. A serious endeavor, consider warming up on Provo and pre-hanging the first three draws.

Shorter folk may find this a tad less powerful as the feet are all high and lacking near the first bolt. Taller climbers may feel scrunched up and powerless, while the crimp masters may just crush this and look for something a little harder?

Location

On the far right side of the Provo Wall, this it the first bolted route you encounter when walking up into the "Provo Area" cove.

Protection

Five or Six bolts to a shared anchor.

Photos

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bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Nice! Sep 20, 2012