Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Josh Thompson, Larry DeAngelo|
|Page Views:||591 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionAbout 200 yards to the west of Mudterm, across a small drainage, is a complex buttress. On its right-hand side there is a clean prominent facet split by an attractive jam crack. This is the route.
Pitch 1: Start below and right of the upper facet in a dihedral with a delicately balanced pillar (5.7).
Pitch 2: Class 3 and 4 climbing leads past a few bushes to a belay spot beneath the obvious roof.
Pitch 3: Climb past the overhang to easier rock in the jam crack above. (5.9)
Pitch 4: Continue up the crack and through a steep but easy v-slot splitting the top of the pillar.
Pitch 5: Move slightly left and follow the crest of the buttress as it levels off.
Descent: Downlead a short pitch to the right (western side of buttress). Then scramble down the brushy gully all the way to the base. There are a few moments of interesting class 3 along the way. The easiest line appears to trend toward the left (western) side of the gully.