All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > First Creek Canyon > Mudterm Area

Balancing Act

Name: Balancing Act
Rating: 1.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Mudterm Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Balancing Act T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Buckets of Blood T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Critical Cams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Even Men Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Goods Are Odd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	In For a Penny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lucky Nuts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Moody's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mudterm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	36.07703, -115.47571
FA:	Josh Thompson, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views:	1,337 total · 5/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

About 200 yards to the west of Mudterm, across a small drainage, is a complex buttress. On its right-hand side there is a clean prominent facet split by an attractive jam crack. This is the route.

Pitch 1: Start below and right of the upper facet in a dihedral with a delicately balanced pillar (5.7).

Pitch 2: Class 3 and 4 climbing leads past a few bushes to a belay spot beneath the obvious roof.

Pitch 3: Climb past the overhang to easier rock in the jam crack above. (5.9)

Pitch 4: Continue up the crack and through a steep but easy v-slot splitting the top of the pillar.

Pitch 5: Move slightly left and follow the crest of the buttress as it levels off.

Descent: Downlead a short pitch to the right (western side of buttress). Then scramble down the brushy gully all the way to the base. There are a few moments of interesting class 3 along the way. The easiest line appears to trend toward the left (western) side of the gully.