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Routes in Mudterm Area

Balancing Act T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buckets of Blood T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Critical Cams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Even Men Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Goods Are Odd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In For a Penny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky Nuts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moody's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mudterm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Josh Thompson, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 598 total · 4/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

About 200 yards to the west of Mudterm, across a small drainage, is a complex buttress. On its right-hand side there is a clean prominent facet split by an attractive jam crack. This is the route.

Pitch 1: Start below and right of the upper facet in a dihedral with a delicately balanced pillar (5.7).

Pitch 2: Class 3 and 4 climbing leads past a few bushes to a belay spot beneath the obvious roof.

Pitch 3: Climb past the overhang to easier rock in the jam crack above. (5.9)

Pitch 4: Continue up the crack and through a steep but easy v-slot splitting the top of the pillar.

Pitch 5: Move slightly left and follow the crest of the buttress as it levels off.

Descent: Downlead a short pitch to the right (western side of buttress). Then scramble down the brushy gully all the way to the base. There are a few moments of interesting class 3 along the way. The easiest line appears to trend toward the left (western) side of the gully.

Protection

Standard rack, small wires.

Photos

J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.9
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.9
A fun route!! Thanks for letting me in on this gem larry!!

Jun 5, 2005

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