Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Dave Foerstel, Larry Deangelo
Page Views: 588 total · 14/month
Shared By: Rudeboy on May 27, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The lower pitches are nothing special but the upper wall was quality all things considered. We climbed it in 6 pitches.

Lower wall: Best climbed in 3 pitches at about 90'-110'. There are two "tiers" of big ledges between lower/upper wall. I included scrambling up to the second tier in my last pitch(150').

Upper wall: We climbed this in 3 pitches: P4-Climb up directly under the big corner to a belay on a decent ledge at about 40'. 5.4
P5- Up through the corner. Plenty of big holds and continuous protection options up to the crux where I went up left on the face instead of slithering up the flare. 150' 5.6
P6- Continue up the crack and follow the corner left and top out. 60'. 5.5

I suspect that 2 60m pitches would be best for the upper wall.

Descent: We rappelled and scrambled down the gully between Mudterm area and here. Primitive how I like it. If I went back I would rap the entire route leaving only webbing behind. One could also descend as per other routes on formation, West gully.  Probably the easiest descent is to scramble east and go down a gully (class 2-3) that comes out near The Schoolyard.

Location

When facing Mudterm area this route is on the large formation a few hundred yards back and right.

Protection

Single rack to 3". No fixed gear.
Karl K
Phoenix, AZ
  5.6
Karl K   Phoenix, AZ
  5.6
Climbed on 3/12/18 - some notes for those actually considering it:
Approach: basically from straight below; we came up slightly from the right (west). As you enter the steep canyon itself, stay left and wind through the trees to the climb (right wall) only at the very end.
Climb: P1-90' start on right hand crack of clear double crack system. Belay on pedestal.
P2-80' - up through nice (and very short) crack to weird crack/pod. We passed all difficulties on left.
P3- 100' - step up on flake & traverse to right until under tree (be very careful here: no pro & iffy footholds); scurry through tree and up to huge ledge. At very end, it doesn't seem to matter if you go left or right onto ledge (I went right).
P4-90' - combined walk across ledge, over small step, to back wall. I got into the big crack from the right (obvious flake/ledge); steep with tiny pro. To small ledge ~50 up.
P5 - full 199' - climb fantastic 5.6 crack/corner system to top. This (almost) makes up for the rest of the climb - by itself, I would give it 3 stars as a 5.6 @ RR. Great pro. Belay at top (pick anchor carefully: big, loose blocks abound)
From top, scramble (5.0) up on left side of pillar, step around left and go down to gully. Small tree available for raps if it makes you nervous (it did me).
From gully, we went down and left (toward starting gully) staying mostly on skier's left (some big dropoffs or right). Hike down until on top of main gully. We made a total of 5 one-rope raps (not counting the one off the pillar) down the gully off of trees. First is on (skiers) left, the others are right side of the gully. Much scrambling and tree-crawling/slithering is required. This is NOT a trade route descent. OP's description of 'primitive' is right on.
The whole day took us almost twice as long as a route of this length & difficulty on more established areas (10+ hours car to car)
Overall, one star. As I said, doing the last crack as one long pitch was 3 stars. Mar 13, 2018