Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: George Wilson, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 814 total · 8/month
Shared By: George Wilson on Dec 14, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A memorial route named for saxaphonist James Moody.

Start in a hand crack and move up through a flare. The upper portion is a little runout but the climbing eases. Belay on a small ledge. You can downclimb to the right or move up and left to join the rappel on 3rd class terrain. Rappel with at least a 60m rope from webbing on a large dead tree. There is an awkward intermediate station for a 50m rope.

Location

This route is located to the west of Mudterm. Locate a white buttress guarded by brush. The crack is located on the right side of the small gully. A good day would include climbing Goods Are Odd as the descent deposits you at the base of the crack.

Protection

C4's .3-4, Double 1-3; (a number 8 Titon will preserve the FA style!) A large cam would help for the upper section.

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
A challenging pitch for the grade, following a cool feature. The only detriment is some sandy, friable rock, especially on the upper part.

The dead rappel tree was looking exceedingly tired, so we relocated the rap station (with new black webbing and a quicklink) to an oak about 5’ higher; single rope rappel with a 70m still works just fine. Apr 1, 2018