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Routes in Mudterm Area

Balancing Act T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buckets of Blood T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Critical Cams T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Even Men Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Goods Are Odd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucky Nuts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moody's Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mudterm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: George Wilson, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,391 total, 16/month
Shared By: George Wilson on Nov 1, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

We climbed this with a 50 meter rope.

1. Start 25' right of the crack on a nice face and trend right. Belay on a small ledge 5.5 120'

2. Continue up trending right and belay on a huge boulder. 5.6 90'

3. Move the belay to the right around the corner to the base of a wall. We unroped for this. 3rd class.

4. Start up the wall below a seam and move through the roof. The pro is there but sparse and critical. Belay on a nice ledge below a chimney. This is a really good pitch. 5.8 90'

5. Climb into and out of the chimney placing pro deep inside the chimney. There is some nice climbing here! Belay above the chimney. 5.8 90'

6. Head up an OW past a tree and set a belay under the roof on a nice ledge. 5.4 70'

7. Optional belay above the roof. Move up through the roof on soft rock, pick your pro wisely as rope drag becomes an issue. There are some bomber holds trough the roof. Continue up nice varnished face aiming for an arete. Set a belay at the base of the arete. 5.7 100'

Downclimb to rappel slings. Rap into the gully and trend left on the walk down toward two more slung trees. The gully deposits you about 100 yards left of the start.

Location

Goods are Odd is located 200 yrds right of Lucky Nuts above a red cliff. Locate a massive crack on a varnished wall. The route starts about 25 feet to the right of the crack.

Protection

Single rack to #4 - double the small stuff. c3's were handy! A large cam is useful but not mandatory.

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
Lots of fragile rock on this one. The descent gully is not for the faint of heart. Apr 3, 2016