Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Herbst?
Page Views: 4,593 total · 23/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Oct 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This is the obvious crack to the left of Black Track.

The start is alittle tricky for gear.Over all a very good route, and quite pumpy!The route ends at 2 bolts and can be rapped with a 60M rope.




This is one of the very few trad climbs I have repeated, I agree with TJ's statement, "a very good climb," and give three stars. Apr 28, 2005
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
If you look at the picture in the description for Black track, this is the first, obvious, crack to the left. Jun 6, 2005
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
I am not sure why this route gets an "R" I found it to be quite well protected. One of the best single pitch routes that I have done in the Park. Apr 3, 2006
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
The route is definately not an R, I watched as someone placed a piece virtually every foot. You could have aided the route and felt solid about all the placements.

As for the actual climb, a great hand crack leads up to a right facing corner and continues on to a featured face. The climb is very sustained and very very pumpy! None of the moves stand out in my mind as particularly cruxy (as compared to the crux on Triassic Sands, for instance), or even very demanding technique-wise, but it is fairly strength intensive and there is a long distance between rests.

Overall, a challenging and very fun route! Apr 7, 2006
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
Really great line- one of the best .10's i've done at RR as far as single pitch stuff goes.

A couple of comments:

1) This thing is not run-out, not even close. Pay attention to your protection opportunities in a couple of spots, but other than that, it eats gear.

2) I'm on the fence about the grade. It's not as hard as some .10d's i've done, but I still don't consider myself a .10+ leader, so maybe this one caters to my strengths. That said, if you've got plenty of juice and are decent at .10, hop on it- it's well worth it. Aug 26, 2006
Bill Bones  
I agree with Vegastradguy. There is no run out on this route at all. You can sew this tighter that a pair of denim's. Aug 26, 2007
david wilson  
anyone done the left leaning thin seam that is seen in the opening photo? beautiful moves and aesthetically pleasing variation! I'm not sure if it makes it harder or easier though. Jun 28, 2008
J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
I've taken the 'R' out of the rating. The reason it was there in the first place was the Swain guide gave it an R. I never thought it deserved the danger rating , but didn't want to sandbag anyone when safety is concerned.
It appears that others agree with the saftey of this route so the R has been removed. Oct 8, 2008
Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
I think you belayed me for that variation Senior Wilson... I thought that it had a bolt protected 10d/11a move. We started right of the bolt line (red tri-cam) following the left trending seam up to the second bolt and traversed left into the start of the left out crack, slammed in a 1/2 inch piece and finished 'left out'. Way aesthetic. If you guys don't dig the original start this way is extremely well protected and adds a nice tension move to an awesome trad line! I LOVE this climb! More thuggish than technical, it's all there. Great in summer... Apr 22, 2009
It appears that a swift may be nesting in the crack on this route at this time. I saw it fly out while I was belaying my partner on another route. Just a heads-up for anyone leading this route for the next few weeks that there is the possibility of a surprise. May 19, 2009
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Lead as an on-sight 5/9/2011. IMO, a tad light for the grade. The sequence is too easy to read and the holds are too positive to warrant a 10d rating. I'd go with 10c. Still an excellent route. May 12, 2011
The variation Jon's talking about is an old Bob Rotert line. Can't remember who he put it up with, maybe John Long? In any case that's what's up with the line, not a new variation, as the bolt would indicate. May 28, 2011
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
Fun climb, very sporty moves. Sep 8, 2012
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Really good holds for the grade. Nice steep crack with mainly face moves and a few great jams. Great rock and bomber gear. Safe lead for the competent climber. Jan 12, 2015
Z Winters
Mazama, WA
Z Winters   Mazama, WA
Climbed Left Out this evening and wow, what a sweet route! I agree that there's tons of pro for the meat of the route, but to balance the discussion I'll add that the pro isn't as obvious between the ramp and the crack. Easy moves here, but I didn't drop anything into the huecos (maybe a #4 here) and probably should have. Also, any pro in the face climbing section to the anchor is mental pro - I didn't bother and it felt a touch runout. Easy climbing there as well, and all the tougher moves are extremely well protected. Mar 17, 2017
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
I thought this thing felt like 11- onsight on lead and then mid 10 on a couple subsequent TR laps. The climbing is a bit funky, and while the gear seemed bomber it still felt heady for some reason. Weird. A small cam in the horizontal before the huecos felt like it would keep you off the ground if you blew it getting to the crack. One of the better pitches I've climbed in red rocks. Nov 19, 2018