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Routes in Hidden Falls Wall

5.8 chopped former sport route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Bigfoot - aka Sole Slasher S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Track T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buffalo Balls S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Camel Toe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killer Clowns T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Left Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Outrageous Fortune S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stupid Foot TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Herbst?
Page Views: 4,045 total, 22/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Oct 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is the obvious crack to the left of Black Track.

The start is alittle tricky for gear.Over all a very good route, and quite pumpy!The route ends at 2 bolts and can be rapped with a 60M rope.

Protection

SR

Photos

Zachary Winters
Mazama, Washington
Zachary Winters   Mazama, Washington
Climbed Left Out this evening and wow, what a sweet route! I agree that there's tons of pro for the meat of the route, but to balance the discussion I'll add that the pro isn't as obvious between the ramp and the crack. Easy moves here, but I didn't drop anything into the huecos (maybe a #4 here) and probably should have. Also, any pro in the face climbing section to the anchor is mental pro - I didn't bother and it felt a touch runout. Easy climbing there as well, and all the tougher moves are extremely well protected. Mar 17, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Really good holds for the grade. Nice steep crack with mainly face moves and a few great jams. Great rock and bomber gear. Safe lead for the competent climber. Jan 12, 2015
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
Fun climb, very sporty moves. Sep 8, 2012
The variation Jon's talking about is an old Bob Rotert line. Can't remember who he put it up with, maybe John Long? In any case that's what's up with the line, not a new variation, as the bolt would indicate. May 28, 2011
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Lead as an on-sight 5/9/2011. IMO, a tad light for the grade. The sequence is too easy to read and the holds are too positive to warrant a 10d rating. I'd go with 10c. Still an excellent route. May 12, 2011
It appears that a swift may be nesting in the crack on this route at this time. I saw it fly out while I was belaying my partner on another route. Just a heads-up for anyone leading this route for the next few weeks that there is the possibility of a surprise. May 19, 2009
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.10+
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.10+
I think you belayed me for that variation Senior Wilson... I thought that it had a bolt protected 10d/11a move. We started right of the bolt line (red tri-cam) following the left trending seam up to the second bolt and traversed left into the start of the left out crack, slammed in a 1/2 inch piece and finished 'left out'. Way aesthetic. If you guys don't dig the original start this way is extremely well protected and adds a nice tension move to an awesome trad line! I LOVE this climb! More thuggish than technical, it's all there. Great in summer... Apr 22, 2009
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
I've taken the 'R' out of the rating. The reason it was there in the first place was the Swain guide gave it an R. I never thought it deserved the danger rating , but didn't want to sandbag anyone when safety is concerned.
It appears that others agree with the saftey of this route so the R has been removed. Oct 8, 2008
david wilson  
 
anyone done the left leaning thin seam that is seen in the opening photo? beautiful moves and aesthetically pleasing variation! I'm not sure if it makes it harder or easier though. Jun 28, 2008
Bill Bones  
 
I agree with Vegastradguy. There is no run out on this route at all. You can sew this tighter that a pair of denim's. Aug 26, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
Really great line- one of the best .10's i've done at RR as far as single pitch stuff goes.

A couple of comments:

1) This thing is not run-out, not even close. Pay attention to your protection opportunities in a couple of spots, but other than that, it eats gear.

2) I'm on the fence about the grade. It's not as hard as some .10d's i've done, but I still don't consider myself a .10+ leader, so maybe this one caters to my strengths. That said, if you've got plenty of juice and are decent at .10, hop on it- it's well worth it. Aug 26, 2006
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
  5.10d
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
  5.10d
The route is definately not an R, I watched as someone placed a piece virtually every foot. You could have aided the route and felt solid about all the placements.

As for the actual climb, a great hand crack leads up to a right facing corner and continues on to a featured face. The climb is very sustained and very very pumpy! None of the moves stand out in my mind as particularly cruxy (as compared to the crux on Triassic Sands, for instance), or even very demanding technique-wise, but it is fairly strength intensive and there is a long distance between rests.

Overall, a challenging and very fun route! Apr 7, 2006
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
I am not sure why this route gets an "R" I found it to be quite well protected. One of the best single pitch routes that I have done in the Park. Apr 3, 2006
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
If you look at the picture in the description for Black track, this is the first, obvious, crack to the left. Jun 6, 2005
This is one of the very few trad climbs I have repeated, I agree with TJ's statement, "a very good climb," and give three stars. Apr 28, 2005