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Routes in Hidden Falls Wall

5.8 chopped former sport route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Bigfoot - aka Sole Slasher S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Track T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buffalo Balls S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Camel Toe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Killer Clowns T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Left Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Outrageous Fortune S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stupid Foot TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,000 total · 7/month
Shared By: Francis Baker (fran) on Aug 14, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route was put up without a permit by some visiting climbers. The hangers have been pulled from the bolts. You can protect it with stoppers hung from the bolts. A short traverse right from the anchor will get you to the anchors for "left out"

Location

In lost creek canyon on the south wall. It starts on the large block 10' east of "left out"

Protection

No bolts and little pro to be had. Build a trad anchor. Have your second traverse right to anchor on "leftout"

Photos

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You will be missed. Sleeper's about 250 feet to the left, no bolts but decent climbing.

And on the useful tip: This route has been chopped for real, now. Last time I did this one it still had a couple hangers in place and a ghetto anchor that you could use if you didn't know about the Left Out anchor. We saw no studs or hardware whatsoever yesterday, there's a few gear placements but all trace of this thing's existence are pretty much gone now. We climbed it on gear at 7+/8 R/X, not really worth the time, there are better face routes at Willow and better protected. No big loss-the other lines just right are way more worth it. Feb 3, 2012
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
I was going to visit this area, but when I heard that this classic had been chopped, I wrote the to ASCA to see if they would fund replacement of the bolts, then vowed to never visit until the bolts were back. Word is this is the sleeper route in Red Rock...destined to be the next Levitation 29. Feb 3, 2012
There are no permits available to bolt in the canyons, so that's not part of the equation. There are newer bolted routes that have gone up and no one's batted an eye-what happened here is that a bunch of cheap stud bolts appeared all over a traditional crag, the routes suck and were placed close enough to the established cracks in some cases to be clipped/used as footholds at cruxes. It was ugly and stupid bolting and the routes were reccommended to be chopped by local guidebook authors several years ago. Doubtful they will be missed. There were at least three bolted pitches put up here, all terrible. The rest of the routes are great! Sep 13, 2011
its that bad Jul 24, 2010
Moonfri  
So this gets a bomb becuase they didn't have permits to put the route up or becuase it's really just that bad? Sep 30, 2009