All Locations > Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 05 - Po… > 5.3 - Doorway R… > Upper Major Mass & Ju…
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 6 votes
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|Shared By:||Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 10, 2001|
|Admins:||Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge|
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Split Decision is a nice climb below the Devil's Doorway formation. Climb the lower section of slabby rock using small holds. The crux is about halfway up where the rock becomes more blank. Finish up the climb by passing through a challening notch and continue to the top.
Top Rope set up is found on the south side of the Devil's Doorway. To get to the base of the climb from the TR setup hike east along lower Devil's Doorway Trail, go up short set of steps just north of The Crypt (route 18). Once above steps turn right (east) and descend gully between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Descend the gully about 20 yards and then turn right and climb through a saddle (4th class). Once through the saddle you'll be on the "upper-band ledge", a nice wide ledge used to access the upper band of the Major Mass (in Swartling's book this ledge is located above the area labeled "Angel's Traverse"). Hike west along the ledge about 150 feet until you're directly below the Devil's Doorway (you'll see it about 50 feet above you). Split Decision is on the wall you're facing, just right of the outside corner.