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Routes in 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheater

Catenary Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cop Ripper T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cop-Out T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Face-Off TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Heisenberg Cheese Danse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jack The Crooked Cop T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lumby Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Old Shoes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pillar, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pilloried T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Step-Across T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Railroad Offwidth (aka Birch Tree Dihedral) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right of the Eye T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Snedegar's Nose T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spectacle T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tang Shwang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Working on the Railroad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Unkown
Page Views: 258 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 18, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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catenary (n): The curve assumed by a cord of uniform density and cross section that is perfectly flexible but not capable of being stretched and that hangs freely from two fixed points.

Catenary Crack is a terrific line up the north wall of the Railroad Amphitheater. Start out on the slightly overhanging bottom section (crux). The hard part is getting started, and this is made worse by the fact that the rock here is often wet. Once off the ground follow the crack up between the roof on your left and the staggered overhangs on your right. If you can get up this one try some 5.10's.


Standard Rack
This is a tough route but I managed to climb it on a few occasions. The slippery feet on the first tough move is what makes this so difficult. Damn it was hard to keep those feet on the wall! I'm not quite ready to lead was enough of a challenge on toprope. Sep 14, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
This route is hard. It was finally dry for us yesterday. I fell the first go and sent a few minutes later. Puzzling...I flashed Cop-out 5.11a but I fall on a 5.9.... ya, cause this no 5.9 Like Ta-Chi said, this thing is beyond polished, more like waxed...feet and hands. Jul 9, 2009
Ta-Chi Wang  
Kasrten and I did this route yesterday. I kind of cheated in the beginning with Karsten's help, who is taller than I am and so who was able to sink a good piece (a Wide Country friend, red) into a left-side finger pocket to the attached flake as a protection for the crux. I then used the layback move, shown by Henning on his photos. That was darn difficult due to lack of footholds (and that portion of wall is virtually waxed). Took a couple falls. Then I gave up the left-facing-layback strategy and instead managed to layback left-facing in the beginning but turned right-facing in order to reach a good hand pocket on the left wall. I don't know whether that pocket is off route, but it helped me stand on the flake, and, then, viola! another perfect pocket for a #2 Camalot just behind the upper, bigger flake that cannot be seen from the ground. After that, the move became easier, and yet the protection en route still posed challenge. I don't know much of the rating at the Lake, but this route, its combined mental and physical demand and uncertainties, surely makes this 5.9 puzzling. Jun 6, 2009
Alex A
Alex A  
A friend of mine, she had a friend with her who never climbed before, he onsight it, in a pair of slip on deck shoes, it was his 3rd climb of the day, then he tried Cop Out, my other friend, said if does it, he's going to quit climbing, he did not get vary far,
he was a gymnast,
I think Cop Out is easier, then Catecary,

It has changed, from the 1st time I did it, a hold broke off, if was still challenging, with the hold, but easier. Aug 7, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Catenary is one of the traditional sandbags in the park, along with The Pooper, Hammer Crack, and many others. No way this is 5.9. Oct 20, 2006
I climbed this on Sunday. Very exhausting start and harder by many opinions that the 5.11a Cop Out next to it. Compare this to Upper D -- Catenary is much harder. Venture afield from the main East Bluff popular climbs and fear the 5.9s. Many were rated when 5.9 was the hardest rating...

Aug 30, 2004
Good for you, Tom! Wanna hear a pain in the ass? A friend of mine, who I'm teaching to lead and has only been climbing since late last year did it in three tries. Doesn't that just tick you off? I'm having problems (as always) with DL 5.7's and here he is taking on 5.9's and even managed Cheetah! Little bugger!

Great job, Tom! Aug 22, 2003
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
I finally spanked this crack today, after 3 years of trying. Maybe it's because it was finally dry. Aug 21, 2003