Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheater

Catenary Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cop Ripper T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cop-Out T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Face-Off TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Heisenberg Cheese Danse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jack The Crooked Cop T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lumby Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Old Shoes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pillar, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pilloried T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Step-Across T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Railroad Offwidth (aka Birch Tree Dihedral) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right of the Eye T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Snedegar's Nose T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spectacle T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tang Shwang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Working on the Railroad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Pete Cleveland
Page Views: 2,260 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 18, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Cop-Out starts about half-way between Snedegar's Nose and The Pillar. Climb up the slightly overhanging wall on finger cracks until you reach the inside corner under the mid-size roof. Once under the roof step out of the corner and onto the face to your right. Use vertical cracks to ascend to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack
f.a. : pete cleveland ? Mar 22, 2002
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.11a
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
  5.11a
pete cleveland did do the f.a. on this a long time ago.this is a killer lead.and a great place to hang on a hot day.bring plenty of swill. Mar 22, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
  5.11a
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
  5.11a
nick,the first lead was by Pete Cleveland a very long time ago. it has been led many times since and soloed. Nov 25, 2005
Tradiban  
 
I remember going right out of the roof. Is the description wrong or is that just a different variation? Jun 29, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11a
I think the description is wrong. I'll change it. Jun 29, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11a
I'd say the description is way off. Not really finger cracks. More like this

"Start with some good side pulls and layback positions. Continue with those movements. Make a powerful move to a great jug about 25ft up. Move up a bit and take a nice no hands rest. Move towards the roof and ascend the small dihedral to get under the main roof. Move out right and use jugs and good crimps to ascend to top. (there might be one hold in that vertical crack, it is a really tight seam.)"

That being said....This is the best climb I have done at Devil's Lake. 5 stars!! Jul 9, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.11a
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.11a
It does have finger crack action through the dihedral. Bottom section to the big flake was all laybacks for me. Is the big flake and the good pocket above the flake the first gear? Jul 9, 2009
Tradiban  
 
The first gear was in the flaring-ness about 12 feet off the deck, Met #6 if I recall correctly. Jul 9, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11a
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11a
Unlikely but bomber medium nut about 7-8 feet off the ground in a constriction. I didn't really see the great placement until I was at it and the nut sort of slid in almost horizontally straight in. Then the flaring area up and right 12 feet up, I think I put a #3 or #4 BD camalot. Then one more kinda tricky small piece in the thin crack before the crux, then it's pretty much over, as I recall. I only did it once, on sight. Super fun. I did both this and Catenary the same night with SteveZ and I thought they were of comparable difficulty. Jul 9, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11a
I did Catenary first, and thought the same thing, very similar movement in the cruxes and similar difficulty. Jul 10, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.11a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.11a
Fun route! That dihedral at the top is super cool. Sep 8, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Chris, what do you mean by "Unlikely but bomber nut...?" This looks like a great lead. Apr 2, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11a
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11a
As I recall, there is this strange vertical constriction that is slopey for a handhold, and I stuck a nut back into it at a 90 degree angle and pulled it straight down and then out towards me, and it lodged in pretty tight. I did not expect anything to fit there at all but it was pretty solid. 'Course that was now a couple years ago so YMMV...

I am not really sure it's necessary since you know a half way decent cam will go in the flaring slot about 12 feet up but it made me more confident since at that moment I wasn't 100% sure anything would go in the flare. Apr 3, 2011
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
 
Kiri Namtvedt   Minneapolis, MN
 
Note: in August 2014 I encountered a small wasp nest about halfway up (in the smallish incut/overhang). They were aggressive! Aug 11, 2014
Just spent 4 days at Devil's Lake, and this was my favorite route of the bunch. Nothing contrived about this line: great, obvious (but not easy!) movement. Hitting the dihedral, and moving out of it beneath the rough was a very interesting (and a bit commiting) move for me personally. I wasn't really able to use the finger crack in the dihedral save at one small 3 inch section. Anyways, amazing route. Sep 7, 2016

More About Cop-Out

Printer-Friendly