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Routes in 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheater

Catenary Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cop Ripper T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cop-Out T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Face-Off TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Heisenberg Cheese Danse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jack The Crooked Cop T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lumby Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Old Shoes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pillar, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pilloried T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Step-Across T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Railroad Offwidth (aka Birch Tree Dihedral) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right of the Eye T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Snedegar's Nose T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spectacle T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tang Shwang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Working on the Railroad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,543 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on May 3, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route

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The Pine Tree Step-Across is more a mental challenge than a physical one. The climb is located just left of the inside corner that leads up to the sizeable pine tree growing out of the rock near the top of the wall. Climb up this face until you reach a large overhaning block just left of the pine tree. Surmount the block using a mantel. Once on the block lean into the blank face and step across the abyss to a small landing pad for your foot. While stepping reach with your left hand for a hidden hold. Continue up to the top of the wall.


For leading, use a standard rack.
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.6 R
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.6 R
I'd say this is a candidate for an R rating. At the step across, the pro is below your feet, with a ledge not too far below the gear. This is an excellent lead, but certainly a heads-up one. Dec 17, 2008
The step across is not only an R, but it's a total headgame. Before you make the move you can't really see how the "step across" is going to go. Sep 14, 2009
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.6 PG13
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.6 PG13
Classic Devils Lake!

The technical crux could come low, depending upon exactly which variation you take on the lower face. The gear down low is finicky; you'll find a fixed pin on the left side of the face about 1/3 of the way up.

There is gear (orange metolius cam) in the horizontal crack below the crux, but it needs to be set just right.

The crux is height/wingspan/flexibility/patience -dependent! Sep 21, 2009
  5.6 R
  5.6 R
So funny to watch Remo freak out on this one! Sep 8, 2010
Madison, WI
  5.6 PG13
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.6 PG13
That step-across move is heady! Sep 8, 2010
roger fritz from rockford, IL   Rockford, IL
I have climbed that thing 10 years ago...I forgot how committing and freaky the step across was. The lower section is definitely the crux if you follow the goofy crack system. I thought it was R at the bottom but very protect able up top. Great lead. True to it's 5-6 rating. Aug 29, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.6 PG13
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.6 PG13
At the crux you can bail to the right. Jam up between the namesake pine tree and the rock, then move back left to the top of the route.

Or just bail to "Pine Tree Dihedral".

A brief shower induced us to look around for options .... Jun 27, 2012
Tom Lausch
Madison WI
  5.6 R
Tom Lausch   Madison WI
  5.6 R
This one is a head check. Not much pro for the top section. The mantle into the middle was comitting and required good focus. Aug 19, 2012
5.6 PG13
5.6 PG13
Would have jumped the step across had Gokul not given me running beta on where to look for that hold. I was telling myself the ledge below wouldn't hurt me too badly. Sweet climb! May 12, 2013
Jack C.
Calgary, AB
Jack C.   Calgary, AB
I suppose this is a variation and not its own route but you can follow the crack system up to underneath the overhang then use the face to the right of the dihedral under the overhang and top out on the face you would step across for Pine Tree Step-Across. Probably a 5.7 Jun 6, 2013
Cals Chers
Albuquerque, NM
  5.6 R
Cals Chers   Albuquerque, NM
  5.6 R
Might be whisperin to whomever you pray to on that step across -- especially if you have Elvis legs -- but afterwards you definitely feel like ya dodged a bullet. Apr 26, 2014
Jenna Damon
Jenna Damon   Wisconsin
You can get some solid smaller stoppers, partner used 3 & 4 micros (did not have smaller stoppers) in the finger crack at the beginning. Also, can sling the tree, we used a 240cm long sling on the ledge before the step across. a sling any shorter though would create drag. Overall an awesome climb that really gets you going mentally! Apr 21, 2017
According to Jeff VS this starts in the left crack and goes up to the pin on the corner, the cool thin crack to the right is the "Heisenberg crack" variation. Maybe a little harder than 5.6? Mar 18, 2018
Ian CB
5.6 R
Ian CB  
5.6 R
A wake up call of a warm up for the day.. Think before you commit to the step across if leading.. The fall would not be good. There are a couple of ways to do it. All that being said this is a fantastic pitch. May 24, 2018

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