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Routes in 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheater

Catenary Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cop Ripper T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cop-Out T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Face-Off TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Heisenberg Cheese Danse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jack The Crooked Cop T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lumby Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Old Shoes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pillar, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pilloried T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Step-Across T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Railroad Offwidth (aka Birch Tree Dihedral) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right of the Eye T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Snedegar's Nose T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spectacle T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tang Shwang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Working on the Railroad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 104 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Oct 4, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A sure to be neo-classic this is my favorite line on the wall linking the meat of "Jack the Ripper" with the best part of "Cop Out".

It starts with a tricky boulder problem and follows a thin seam to a no hands rest. Then an airy traverse into a perfect dihedral and through the roof on good holds.

Location

Start on "Jack the Ripper" in the over-hanging seam and follow a thin crack to the left corner. Then head right in the horizontal crack over to the dihedral.

Protection

A #4 Camalot can be placed off the ground and then try to place a #3 off a manky sloper or do the boulder problem and place it when stable. Small and nuts and cams thereafter.

Photos

Tradiban  
 
I thought the boulder problem at the start was definitely 5.11a moves. You're right easier after that except maybe pulling around the roof. Jun 27, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
So when does this route become 5.11a? Are the moves below/out of the roof of Cop Out really 5.11 moves? Jun 27, 2011
Tradiban  
 
This is unfortunately a solid R rated lead only for the boulder problem to start in which there is good pro but it's hard to place until after you are through with it.

I used double ropes on lead to deal with rope drag. On a single line long runners and thought to placements is advised. Oct 4, 2010