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Routes in 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheater

Catenary Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cop Ripper T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cop-Out T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Face-Off TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Heisenberg Cheese Danse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jack The Crooked Cop T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lumby Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Old Shoes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pillar, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pilloried T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine Tree Dihedral T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Step-Across T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Railroad Offwidth (aka Birch Tree Dihedral) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right of the Eye T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Snedegar's Nose T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spectacle T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tang Shwang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Working on the Railroad T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,833 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 5, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The Pine Tree Dihedral is an easily protected route that is excellent for novice trad leaders. The route follows the inside corner that sits below the teenaged pine tree growing out of the rock near the top of the wall. Climb this route by jamming the crack of the dihedral up to the overhanging block midway up the wall. Proceed to the right of the overhanging block and continue up the dihedral, passing the tree on your left. Duck under the tree branches and follow the inside corner to the top of the wall.

Protection

For leading use a standard rack
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
  5.7
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
  5.7
I think this route has my vote for the most sandbagged 5.5 at the Lake (and therefore: anywhere?). At no point did it feel like 5.5 (even by DL standards), and the roof pull/mantle was harder than any 5.6 (and most 5.7s) I've done. Recommending this as a first lead is just plain cruel, even if the pro is solid and the climbing fun. May 30, 2017
Dylan B.  
 
I reslung the fixed #1 Camalot with new cordalette yesterday. Should be good for the rest of the summer, anyhow. Jun 9, 2014
Jeff VS  
There is a very nice "hero" variation at the crux (we call it the "cheese danse"). When you are tucked under the big crux roof, instead of manteling to the ledge on the right, reach up on the face above the roof until you find the nice finger ledge with your left hand. The real "hero" looking move is to then match both hands on the little ledge and let go with the feet and just hang in mid air. Do a pull-up on the little ledge and use the little bulge on the edge of the over-hang for your right foot. This is only about a 5.7 move and that mostly for commitment to letting go with everything else. It isn't too hard but it looks really cool! May 28, 2014
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
Portland, OR
  5.6
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman   Portland, OR
  5.6
Pulling onto the ledge just right of the roof felt more difficult than 5.5, my finance was seconding and she traversed over to the arete and said that felt more like 5.5. Definitely fun! Jun 18, 2013
Gokul

 
Gokul    
 
There are now two fixed #1s, right next to each other, on this route!

BETA ALERT:
Found an alternate way up past the insecure crux mantle last week. From the inside corner where you pull the mantle, step right onto the arete and go up there. May 1, 2013
Tom Lausch
Madison WI
  5.5
Tom Lausch   Madison WI
  5.5
Make sure to clip the #1 Bd that someone got stuck in the crack on the right about half way up. Free pro! But good luck getting it out without ruining it. Might as well leave it in my opinion. Great climb though Aug 19, 2012
Tradiban
  5.5
Tradiban  
  5.5
Agreed, mantle move isn't for the beginning leader. Unless you want to sandbag them! Sep 8, 2010
Somehow the crux on this route has been underestimated. The crux to overcome the overhung boulder requires a hang jam (just underneath the boulder), a smearing footwork on the right face, and then a powerful pull-up in order to reach either a not-so-good hold on the left or into a groove (far and bad one) on the right. For a beginner's leading? I'm not sure. May 24, 2009
For leading, it likes big stuff. Cams 2" and up, #10 and #11 Hexentrics. However, there is a good placement in the small roof for small cams. Fun crack. Jun 2, 2002