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Routes in Thin Vice Area

Accidental Purist, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin Vice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vice Squad TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Chris Miller, February 2005
Page Views: 43 total, 0/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start off a boulder left of the striking Thin Vice and climb the left edge of the face up and right to reach the anchors on that route. The crux comes at mid-height and involves moving off a knob and some edges into a head-sized hueco (shorter people may need to jump to reach the hold).

Good rock and fun moves up positive holds are in this route's favor, but the potential swing should you fall is not. One star out of five.

Location

Approach as for the Love Nest block but instead of turning off for those routes continue east on a good trail that leads to the Planet X area.

Once even with the eastern edge of the rubble pile that the Love Nest is a part of make a left (heading north) and look for a large round boulder about midway along the east side that's set back slightly (this is directly below the highpoint of the rubble pile). Scramble through brush and a small cave past the base of the The Accidental Purist and then make a quick left to reach this short north-facing wall.

Protection

TR

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