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Vice Squad
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Thin Vice Area
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Accidental Purist, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thin Vice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Vice Squad TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 33.99619, -116.15765 |
| FA: | Chris Miller, February 2005 |
| Page Views: | 717 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start off a boulder left of the striking Thin Vice and climb the left edge of the face up and right to reach the anchors on that route. The crux comes at mid-height and involves moving off a knob and some edges into a head-sized hueco (shorter people may need to jump to reach the hold).
Good rock and fun moves up positive holds are in this route's favor, but the potential swing should you fall is not. One star out of five.
Location
Approach as for the Love Nest block but instead of turning off for those routes continue east on a good trail that leads to the Planet X area.
Once even with the eastern edge of the rubble pile that the Love Nest is a part of make a left (heading north) and look for a large round boulder about midway along the east side that's set back slightly (this is directly below the highpoint of the rubble pile). Scramble through brush and a small cave past the base of the The Accidental Purist and then make a quick left to reach this short north-facing wall.
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