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Love Nest Area Rock Climbing
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| GPS: |
33.99628, -116.15825 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 9,271 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 17, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This area is a group of rocks across the road from Cap Rock which offers approximately 15 routes from 5.8 crack to 5.12a face scattered over several different formations. The approach varies from 5-10 minutes typically, with the Love Nest having the shortest approach and being the most popular.
Several excellent sport routes are found on the Love Nest proper in a sunny, south-facing locale with a minmimal approach. The climbs Shakin' Like Milk (5.11b), We Don't Need No Stinking Badges (5.11c) and Boy's Don't Cry (5.12a) are all recommended and must-do sport climbs for the grade.
Further afield are a number of routes up blocks and boulders, with Test Fire (5.10a) a nice finger crack and Thin Vice (5.11c) a short but technical seam being standouts.
Several excellent sport routes are found on the Love Nest proper in a sunny, south-facing locale with a minmimal approach. The climbs Shakin' Like Milk (5.11b), We Don't Need No Stinking Badges (5.11c) and Boy's Don't Cry (5.12a) are all recommended and must-do sport climbs for the grade.
Further afield are a number of routes up blocks and boulders, with Test Fire (5.10a) a nice finger crack and Thin Vice (5.11c) a short but technical seam being standouts.
Getting There
The best approach is to park in a pullout due west of the formation and follow a worn path five minutes east to The Love Nest. The parking area is almost directly across from where the old Lost Horse road comes out, and a stop sign will be noticeable to the observant.
The Thin Vice area is reached by walking east, past the Love Nest and then turning north to skirt the boulders on the right. See that page for additional approach information.
The Test Fire Boulder is a large, round boulder on the north end of the boulder pile and is easily reached by walking counterclockwise around the entire boulder clump.
The Thin Vice area is reached by walking east, past the Love Nest and then turning north to skirt the boulders on the right. See that page for additional approach information.
The Test Fire Boulder is a large, round boulder on the north end of the boulder pile and is easily reached by walking counterclockwise around the entire boulder clump.
Classic Climbing Routes at Love Nest Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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