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Routes in The Love Nest

Adolescent Behavior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boy's Don't Cry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Newton's Law V5 6C
Shakin' Like Milk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
We Don't Need No Stinking Badges S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Paul Borne and others
Page Views: 631 total, 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is the hardest of the Love Nest routes and takes the line of strength up the center of the block.

Starting just left of Shakin' Like Milk climb the thin face upward to a distinct bouldery crux at the third bolt. Above this the difficulties ease considerably, but don't celebrate yet as the final section is a thin and very balancy slab section which will remind you you're still in Josh.

Fingery moves down low and a delicate vertical slab finish make this a great route which requires a variety of techniques to succeed. Three stars out of five.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")

Photos

joe morgan
riverside, ca
joe morgan   riverside, ca
update to the starting breakage:
there is a decent crimp for the right hand up near the first bolt. i used a worse undercling/gaston for my left hand. i was able to stand up onto the good feet. throwing for the next hold 4 feet up will be hard. still goes though. just hard. Nov 30, 2009
The start of this otherwise excellent route has broken. It will still go but looks much more difficult with a clear boulder problem at the bottom. Possible to traverse in from Shakin' Like Milk but it's a solo if you aren't on TR and the first moves aren't protected probably even on TR. I tried starting directly for a few minutes but with a high shallow tips undercling and nothing else, it will be very challenging to get both feet established to make the first reach. Nov 22, 2004
Randy
  5.11d
Randy  
  5.11d
Staying more to the right at the crux makes the route definitely easier. The slabby section at the top actually is concave and overhangs a bit for the last move. Dec 20, 2003