All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Sheep Pass Area > Planet X Area > Love Nest Area > Thin Vice Area
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft|
|FA:||Rex Pieper & Keath Nupuf, October 1994|
|Page Views:||37 total, 0/month|
|Shared By:||C Miller on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe climb involves near-vertical face climbing along the right side of a striking seam using thin edges and the occasional opening in the seam. Balancy moves lead up to the last pin where intricate footwork and smooth weight transitions gain a small stance at a bolt. The final moves past the bolt involve a lieback to a highstep and a thumb mantle to reach the finishing jugs. Two bolt anchor with hangers only, but an easy downclimb exists to the climber's right.
A very unique and enjoyable climb that favors good technique over raw power. Great rock and a pleasant variety of moves make this a climb to seek out if nearby. Three stars out of five.
LocationApproach as for the Love Nest block, but instead of turning off for those routes continue east on a good trail that leads to the Planet X area.
Once even with the eastern edge of the rubble pile that the Love Nest is a part of, make a left (heading north) and look for a large round boulder about midway along the east side that's set back slightly (this is directly below the highpoint of the rubble pile). Scramble through brush and a small cave past the base of the The Accidental Purist and then make a quick left to reach this short north-facing wall.
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