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Routes in Thin Vice Area

Accidental Purist, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin Vice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vice Squad TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Rex Pieper & Keath Nupuf, October 1994
Page Views: 37 total, 0/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The climb involves near-vertical face climbing along the right side of a striking seam using thin edges and the occasional opening in the seam. Balancy moves lead up to the last pin where intricate footwork and smooth weight transitions gain a small stance at a bolt. The final moves past the bolt involve a lieback to a highstep and a thumb mantle to reach the finishing jugs. Two bolt anchor with hangers only, but an easy downclimb exists to the climber's right.

A very unique and enjoyable climb that favors good technique over raw power. Great rock and a pleasant variety of moves make this a climb to seek out if nearby. Three stars out of five.

Location

Approach as for the Love Nest block, but instead of turning off for those routes continue east on a good trail that leads to the Planet X area.

Once even with the eastern edge of the rubble pile that the Love Nest is a part of, make a left (heading north) and look for a large round boulder about midway along the east side that's set back slightly (this is directly below the highpoint of the rubble pile). Scramble through brush and a small cave past the base of the The Accidental Purist and then make a quick left to reach this short north-facing wall.

Protection

3 fixed pins, bolt (5/16"), 2 bolt anchor (3/8")

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