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> Sheep Pass Area
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> Love Nest Area
> Thin Vice Area
The Accidental Purist
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1 from 2
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Routes in Thin Vice Area
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Accidental Purist, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thin Vice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Vice Squad TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Rex Pieper & Keath Nupuf, October 1994 |
| Page Views: | 498 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Stem off a rock to start and climb positive but grainy edges to reach a high first bolt. Small but good edges with decent feet are climbed past the first bolt (crux) to a second bolt where larger, more incut holds lead to the top. Bolted anchor/rap on top.
The quality moves, sheltered location with no wind and the fact that this is a summit with no easy way to the top make up for the shortness of the climb. One star out of five.
The quality moves, sheltered location with no wind and the fact that this is a summit with no easy way to the top make up for the shortness of the climb. One star out of five.
Location
Approach as for the Love Nest block, but instead of turning off for those routes continue east on a good trail that leads to the Planet X area.
Once even with the eastern edge of the rubble pile that the Love Nest is a part of, make a left (heading north) and look for a large round boulder about midway along the east side. A short scramble through brush and a small cave will access this west-facing route.
Once even with the eastern edge of the rubble pile that the Love Nest is a part of, make a left (heading north) and look for a large round boulder about midway along the east side. A short scramble through brush and a small cave will access this west-facing route.
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