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Routes in The Orc Wall

Candelabra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Grand Theft Avocado T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orc Sighs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orc, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Troll, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Davis & Don O'Kelley, November 1971, FFA: John Long, April 1972
Page Views: 1,192 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The route is an obvious shallow corner which becomes a detached, hanging, thin, right- facing flake. It MIGHT be solid, but it doesn't look that way. Falling on cams behind it is a proposal of dubious wisdom, at best. Climb up on a few moderate moves in the shallow right-facing corner to reach the hanging flake. Move up onto this flake with jams and liebacks to reach the top (5.9) and move up through the first of two 'blank' bulges to reach a decent horizontal feature (10a) traverse left (5.7) here or pull a second roof (5.11?) and then traverse left (5.11?) to reach a weakness that leads to the top. Vogel's book depicts the 5.11 option I described and seems to be in error.

Once up top, move back to the North to clip the fixed anchor to belay. This is the rap anchor for the wall and can be extended to form a TR-point if desired.

Protection

Best top-roped. The flake system can be 'protected' with dubous cams that might just rip-out and drop this 20-ton hanging flake on you.

If you lead it, please don't fall, and be aware that the route as drawn on the topo is probably 5.11. I was wigged on it. To keep this at 10a, follow the more obvious chalked traverse one roof lower than indicated.

Photos

Erik  
Leeper hangers and slings at anchor were replaced with good bolts and chains on 8/2/2004. Aug 3, 2004
Felt pretty burly for 5.10a, maybe because it's mostly TR'd?

The new Vogel Guide has the correct finish - traverse left or right after climbing to the top of the flake. Feb 22, 2008
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
 
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
 
Easy to TR from rappel anchors. Fun climbing with something for everyone. Oct 22, 2008
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.10b X
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.10b X
did't realize this was x rated, Looked like a cool 5.11! Happy to onsight! Mar 23, 2013
The anchor bolts and hardware were replaced in 2016, hardware courtesy of the American Safe Climbing Association.

If you'd like to donate to the ASCA, go tosafeclimbing.org Dec 6, 2017

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