Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Dave Davis & Don O'Kelley, November 1971, FFA: John Long, April 1972
Page Views: 2,281 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


42 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Due to the unstable nature of the giant flake on this route, the climb should only be done as a top rope.

The route starts in an obvious right-facing corner which leads to a detached, hanging, thin, right- facing flake. It MIGHT be solid, but it doesn't look that way. Falling on cams behind it is a proposal of dubious wisdom, at best. 

Climb the shallow right-facing corner to reach the hanging flake. Move up and right onto this flake with jams and liebacks to reach a horizontal crack. Move up through the first of two 'blank' bulges to reach a decent horizontal feature. If you are top roping, the anchor will now be directly above you. If you decided to lead the route, traverse left until you can get around the final bulge and reach the top.

There is a two-bolt anchor atop this route. To set up a top rope, you'll need a cordalette or chunk of anchor rope.

Protection Suggest change

Best top-roped. The flake system can be 'protected' with dubous cams that might just rip-out and drop this 20-ton hanging flake on you.

If you lead it, please don't fall, and be aware that the route as drawn on the topo is probably 5.11. I was wigged on it. To keep this at 10a, follow the more obvious chalked traverse one roof lower than indicated.

Photos

loading