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Steve Canyon Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 4,200 ft | 1,280 m |
| GPS: |
34.019, -116.1666 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 67,739 total · 333/month | |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 27, 2009 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
is formed by a series of rocks that are oriented in a north-south direction; numerous routes exist on both the east and west sides of the formation inside the canyon proper as well as on the outer faces of the canyon.
From the mouth of the canyon inwards are the following:
Left Side (E. Facing)
The Orc Wall
Tennis Shoe Block
Super Roof Wall
Right side (W. Facing)
Sidewinder Rock - West Face
Grain Surgery Wall
Mud Wrestling Wall
Popular amongst those in the know, this can be a good place to escape the winds and even soak up the sun depending upon the time of day. A good balance of crack and face climbs exist here from 5.4 to 5.12b meaning something for just about everybody.
Some of the better routes here include Skinny Dip (5.7 R), Super Roof (5.9), Grain Surgery (5.10b), Sidewinder (5.10b), The Decompensator of Lhasa (5.10c), Diamondback (5.10c) and Jumping Jack Crack (5.11a).
Getting There
Two of the popular approaches for getting into Steve Canyon are as follows:
Hidden Valley CG Approach - Starting from the large lot at Hidden Valley Campgound walk along the west face of the Old Woman using a well-worn trail which leads directly to the mouth of Steve Canyon proper. This approach takes about 5-10 minutes depending upon which portion of Steve Canyon you plan on visiting.
Park Boulevard Approach - Park in one of several paved turnouts along Park Blvd. a short distance to the north of the turn into the Hidden Valley CG parking lot and follow a marked trail east to the mouth of Steve Canyon. The west face of Sidewinder Rock and it's distinctive slanting dike system is a good landmark. This approach takes about 5-10 minutes depending upon which portion of Steve Canyon you plan on visiting.
It's also quite easy to access this area from The Outback proper by heading west along the north side of The Blob and then south past the east face of Sidewinder Rock, circling around the southern end of that formation to arrive at the mouth of Steve Canyon.
Classic Climbing Routes at Steve Canyon
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