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Candelabra

5.10a X, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 43 votes
FA: Dave Davis & Don O'Kelley, November 1971, FFA: John Long, April 1972
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Outback > Steve Canyon Area > Steve Canyon > Orc Wall
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Due to the unstable nature of the giant flake on this route, the climb should only be done as a top rope.

The route starts in an obvious right-facing corner which leads to a detached, hanging, thin, right- facing flake. It MIGHT be solid, but it doesn't look that way. Falling on cams behind it is a proposal of dubious wisdom, at best. 

Climb the shallow right-facing corner to reach the hanging flake. Move up and right onto this flake with jams and liebacks to reach a horizontal crack. Move up through the first of two 'blank' bulges to reach a decent horizontal feature. If you are top roping, the anchor will now be directly above you. If you decided to lead the route, traverse left until you can get around the final bulge and reach the top.

There is a two-bolt anchor atop this route. To set up a top rope, you'll need a cordalette or chunk of anchor rope.

Protection

Best top-roped. The flake system can be 'protected' with dubous cams that might just rip-out and drop this 20-ton hanging flake on you.

If you lead it, please don't fall, and be aware that the route as drawn on the topo is probably 5.11. I was wigged on it. To keep this at 10a, follow the more obvious chalked traverse one roof lower than indicated.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The wife top-roping the fun but spooky Candelabra
[Hide Photo] The wife top-roping the fun but spooky Candelabra
Candelabra.
[Hide Photo] Candelabra.
Pulling on the flake....
[Hide Photo] Pulling on the flake....
Candelabra crack (5.10a)
[Hide Photo] Candelabra crack (5.10a)
Candelabra flake up close.
[Hide Photo] Candelabra flake up close.
taking my time on a beautiful rap in the canyon
[Hide Photo] taking my time on a beautiful rap in the canyon

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kai Ewert
Ojai, CA
[Hide Comment] Felt pretty burly for 5.10a, maybe because it's mostly TR'd?

The new Vogel Guide has the correct finish - traverse left or right after climbing to the top of the flake. Feb 22, 2008
Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA
[Hide Comment] The anchor bolts and hardware were replaced in 2016, hardware courtesy of the American Safe Climbing Association.

If you'd like to donate to the ASCA, go to safeclimbing.org Dec 6, 2017
M A
CA
  5.10 X
[Hide Comment] Very fun, well worth the top rope. Oct 26, 2020
mac ingus
Brier, WA
  5.10 X
[Hide Comment] Maybe I was tired from the day or my beta was bad but the sustained climbing on the flake in the steep terrain felt like a solid V1 problem to me. I think a solid 10. Agree that this is worth the top rope, cool climb. Dec 22, 2020