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Candelabra
5.10a X,
Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.4 from 43
votes
FA: Dave Davis & Don O'Kelley, November 1971, FFA: John Long, April 1972
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Outback
> Steve Canyon Area
> Steve Canyon
> Orc Wall
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Due to the unstable nature of the giant flake on this route, the climb should only be done as a top rope.
The route starts in an obvious right-facing corner which leads to a detached, hanging, thin, right- facing flake. It MIGHT be solid, but it doesn't look that way. Falling on cams behind it is a proposal of dubious wisdom, at best.
Climb the shallow right-facing corner to reach the hanging flake. Move up and right onto this flake with jams and liebacks to reach a horizontal crack. Move up through the first of two 'blank' bulges to reach a decent horizontal feature. If you are top roping, the anchor will now be directly above you. If you decided to lead the route, traverse left until you can get around the final bulge and reach the top.
There is a two-bolt anchor atop this route. To set up a top rope, you'll need a cordalette or chunk of anchor rope.
Protection
Best top-roped. The flake system can be 'protected' with dubous cams that might just rip-out and drop this 20-ton hanging flake on you.
If you lead it, please don't fall, and be aware that the route as drawn on the topo is probably 5.11. I was wigged on it. To keep this at 10a, follow the more obvious chalked traverse one roof lower than indicated.
[Hide Photo] The wife top-roping the fun but spooky Candelabra
Ojai, CA
The new Vogel Guide has the correct finish - traverse left or right after climbing to the top of the flake. Feb 22, 2008
Joshua Tree, CA
If you'd like to donate to the ASCA, go to safeclimbing.org Dec 6, 2017
CA
Brier, WA