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Routes in The Orc Wall

Candelabra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Grand Theft Avocado T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orc Sighs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orc, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Evans, October 1978
Page Views: 1,520 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Route to be descibed is the most Obvious crack system moving up the low-angle S-faceing buttress of the South Wall on the West Side of Steve Canyon. That's a mouthfull...In short, it's the first route on the left just before you enter the canyon.

Climb up on a few awkward moves to gain a slightly flaring jamcrack and continue upward to the top of the rock in that crack system. If you like a lot of pro, take a doube set of cams to 3.5"

Moving back to the NE from the top of the route you will fing the bolt-anchor for the Route Candelabra, which can provide both a place to belay, and rap from.

Protection

A full rack, including 1 set of nuts and 1 set of cams from 1"-3"

Photos

This is an enjoyable route that takes excellent pro with somewhat coarse rock and a somewhat flaring crack. I cannot remember the last time I fell on a 5.7 in JT.... but I fell several times at the crux of this route. Then I did it twice on top rope, falling once and sending it another time. Then after TR'ing the very enjoyable Candelabra, I had to lead it again in order to pull the anchor above Candelabra. I fell a couple more times at the crux.

Having cleanly led Bambi Meets Godzilla on the same trip, I would humbly suggest that this is a 5.8. ...Or a 5.7 in the same vein as Smooth as Silk. Apr 16, 2017
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
I would not recommend this climb. Feb 6, 2017
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.7+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.7+
Is/was Craig the leader of the SheepBuggerers from back then? Man he was rad! Whatever happened to that dude anyway? Jan 25, 2011
Randy  
The real story is as follows:

I was scrambling around in the Outback looking for likely unclimbed lines and saw this route. Later, I told Spencer and Dave about it, hoping one of them would give me a belay. Both of them feigned a lack of interest. But, Dave must have told Craig about it and then stole my route. To add insult to injury, Dave just soloed it. Jan 24, 2011
David Evans
  5.8
David Evans  
  5.8
This route (Grand Theft Avocado) is named after a funny event that happened to Spencer and Alan Lennard when in high school. They, devout vegetarians, were visiting an Avo grove near their home in Orange, CA for the purposes of collecting Avo's (the fallen ripe ones on the ground, of course). While collecting, they were surprised by an Irvine Co. OC Sheriff who was not pleased by their trespassing on "Company" property (yes, the Irvine Co. has OC employees in their pockets). The officer insisted that they fill several boxes with Avos before he arrested them, Avos were about $1.00 each in those days (way more than they needed). Lo and behold while in booking they discovered they were being booked for "Grand Theft", a fairly serious crime (more serious than trespass). Luckily the judge threw the case out as it's merits were questionable! A couple years later Spencer mentioned a cool hand crack he had found over by Candleabra and we walked over to have a look. When we arrived I discovered that the crack fit my hands perfectly and I soloed it on site in my tennies while Spencer watched. He decided not to solo it and we joked that I had stolen it from him! Hence GTA. Jan 8, 2004