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> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Oyster Bar Area
> Asylum
> Split Personality Rock
Shock Therapy
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 25
votes
Routes in Split Personality Rock
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5150 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Schlock Therapy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shock Therapy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Split Personality S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 33.99, -116.14243 |
| FA: | Jim Thornburg & John Tuttle, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,663 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
An overhanging start on large holds soon gives way to a steep slab requiring the usual balance and footwork; the interesting combination of steep, positive holds and insecure, slabby smears on this route will keep your interest throughout.
Were this climb longer (the usual Josh lament) it would be that much better. Three stars out of five.
Location
This climb is found on the east side of The Asylum about 30' left of Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) and on the other side of some boulders which you can climb over/under to reach the base.
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