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Routes in Split Personality Rock

5150 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schlock Therapy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shock Therapy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Personality S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Venus Which is Green (aka Disposition Crevice) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Kurt Smith, 1985
Page Views: 875 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Easy moves up the corner lead to a solitary bolt, which protects a thin face traverse (reachy move) out left to jugs. Easier moves follow and lead to the anchors.

Originally climbed without any bolts, another party came along (in 1989) thinking the route unclimbed and added the bolt and anchors, which is how it now stands. This climb offers a nice blend of crack and face climbing in a somewhat secluded area. Two stars out of five.

Location

Around the corner from the striking arete of Split Personality is this left-facing corner system which thins and leads to face climbing.

Protection

pro to 2.5", bolt, anchors (all 3/8")

Photos

R Dubs
San Diego, CA
 
R Dubs   San Diego, CA
 
Very worth doing - with a little body english the crux can be knocked out quite easily, without it you're in for some burl. Definitely G with that bolt. May 20, 2016
Phil Esra  
 
A beautiful little corner; worth doing. Dec 9, 2014
The PG rating makes sense to me. I fell at the top of the crack, pulled a small cam, and almost fell on my belayer, who ducked just in time. It's a great route, though. As always, make sure you back up small gear and use decent-sized runners, especially this close to the ground. Jul 13, 2007
Murf
  5.11b
Murf  
  5.11b
Last few finger locks harder if your fingers tend toward the big end. PG in Barlett which doesn't seem to make sense. Oct 2, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Useless trivia - the name "Venus Which Is Green" comes from the the Jimi Hendrix song Voodoo Chile (at 2:43 in), which is on the Electric Ladyland album. Dec 10, 2005