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Routes in Sidewinder Rock - West Face

Diamondback T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Invisible Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jumping Jack Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Pin T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kingsnake T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Skinny Dip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Venucian Fece T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Yvonne MacPherson 3/87
Page Views: 993 total, 6/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located up and around the corner from Sidewinder, just right of Skinny Dip.

Climb the initial handcrack as for Skinny Dip, then step out right onto the face. Clip a bolt, followed by 2 more. Make a difficult move right (crux) to gain a crack which takes you to the top.

Rap from a 2-bolt anchor.

Protection

3 bolts, TCUs for upper crack
There were only 3 bolts placed on the first ascent. The fourth bolt (now missing) was placed by someone after the first ascent and subsequently removed (not by me). As I recall, it was one of those weird, self -drilling sleeves with the threads inside for the bolt to be screwed into.

If someone wants to replace/add this fourth bolt it's OK with me. May 9, 2010
A bolt is indeed missing, but I don't think any holds are missing. The crux is funky and pretty technical with holds that seem to be facing the wrong direction, but there's a sequence that works even for climbers like me at 5'9" and 0 ape index. Fun route, and could be a good lead if that last bolt weren't missing. May 6, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
I think something broke between the last bolt and the crack, because there's no way this is .10d. Plus a bolt is missing. Feb 28, 2010
peachy spohn  
 
It is the route just left of King Pin. Cool slab moves. Mar 26, 2009